They say March comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb. So bidding farewell to this transitional month has me thinking about juicy little chops or a succulent roasted leg. It’s a happy coincidence that Easter is just around the corner. For those of you who sacrificed meat for lent, spring lamb is the proper protein to celebrate the occasion. It was responsible for my resurrection as a carnivore.
Whatever the preparation, lamb begs for a full-bodied robust red. And I say the more character it has, the better. Beyond that, it’s hard to go wrong. Lamb is a staple in Spain and a traditional match with the wines from the region of Rioja. Another classic partner is Cabernet Sauvignon. Australia’s eucalyptus driven examples from Coonawarra are particularly winning when mint sauce is a side.
Rustic roasts take me to the South of France where generous blends of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan are always poised to take on hearty fare. The neighbouring Rhône Valley offers similar reds with a bit more polish. Look for appellations like Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages, Vacqueyras, Gigondas or even Châteauneuf -du-Pape for a splurge.
And then there’s Italy (of course). A Sangiovese-based Tuscan red is THE companion for lamb Osso Buco while Puglia’s friendly and affordable wines are perfect for braises and stews.
White drinker, don’t despair. You can have your lamb and drink your white too. Something gutsy and assertive will stand up just fine especially if you marinade the beast in garlic, lemon and rosemary. What to choose? Think Greece. (Marquis Wine Cellars stocks an interesting selection of Greek whites.)
2012 Luccarelli, Negro Amaro • IGT Puglia, Italy • $14.99, BC Liquor Stores
Rich, ripe fruit with notes of prune, plum, red licorice, and coffee. It would pair marvelously with lamb Tagine. Great value and ideal for a crowd.
2013 Amalaya, Malbec • Valle Calchaquí, Salta, Argentina • $19.99, BC Liquor Stores
Malbec reaches new heights when blended with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat. Black raspberry, wild cherries, pepper and an intriguing meatiness. So appropriate if you are using the occasion to fire up the barbeque.
2012 Laurent Miquel, ‘l’Artisan’ • Faugères AOC, France • $21.99, BC Liquor Stores
This hearty southern French red tempts my weakness for Syrah. Rounded out with a generous splash of Grenache, it boasts crushed lavender, dried herbs and dark black fruit on the palate. I’m dreaming of roasted leg with lots of thyme.
2011 Majella, Cabernet Sauvignon • Coonawarra, Australia • $29.99, BC Liquor Stores
Exuberant black currant and eucalyptus with hints of tobacco, chocolate and smoke. Dense and concentrated but never tiring. Make sure you have that mint sauce handy.
2007 Beronia, Gran Reserva • Rioja DOC, Spain • $39.99, BC Liquor Stores
Tempranillo is the main player here and is aged in a combo of French and American oak for two years. The result is a complex and savoury red showing vanilla, leather, soy, cedar and cassis with soft mouth caressing tannin. For an elegant meal, serve rack of lamb.
