Vancouvers great outdoor playground, cultural diversity and the food scene are just some of the aspects that draw talent to the city.
One culinary star, chef Dale Mackay, came out from the prairies to Vancouver at an early age to work as a line cook. After heading to London to work with chef Gordon Ramsey, Mackay returned to Vancouver and to the citys top dining rooms; Lumiere and db Bistro Moderne. He then went on to win season one of Top Chef Canada and shortly thereafter opened his own fine dining establishment, Ensemble, followed by a gastropub, Ensemble Tap.
Although both restaurants had rave reviews and despite his talent and Top Chef fame, Mackay closed both spots last fall, citing high rents and the decision to spend more time with family (Mackay has a young son, Ayden).
Vancouvers costs are high, both personal and business, Mackay said in a recent interview. I was working 60 hours a week and was super stressed, which began to strain my creativity. The chef admits he should have not done so much so soon and is now focused on balancing his work and personal life.
Mackay looked towards his home town of Saskatoon over a year ago and will begin construction on a new restaurant and storefront there as soon as he secures the location. Since closing the two restaurants he has been travelling to Saskatoon and Calgary to consult and join chefs in collaborative diners. Mackay was also summoned to the Cayman Islands by chef Eric Ripert to join chefs Anthony Bourdain, Spike Mendelsohn and Jose Andres for the Cayman Island Cookout.
There he taught a cooking class on the beach, presenting BC sablefish and his famous pulled pork, and then teamed up with a local chef for a dinner heavy on the provinces specialties.
Mackay also revealed that his Saskatoon projects will have a bistro feel, with a lounge and approximately 110 seats, hinting the hunt for location must be close to over.
The room will have lots of reclaimed wood and brass and there will be a focus on local produce.
And as opposed to his Vancouver restaurants heavy seafood menus, this spot will have less ocean-sourced product and the fish will include Saskatchewan lake-sourced perch and trout, while the adjacent storefront will sell cheese, charcuterie and prepared items such as smoked brisket, confit duck and pulled pork.
Mackay will not be taking this journey on his own, as he is bringing his sous chefs Nathan Guggenheimer (ex-Lumiere) and Jesse Zuber with him as well as his front of house manager Christopher Cho; both from Ensemble.
It is unfortunate that Vancouver has priced itself out of some grand culinary talent, but Mackays relocation and return home is exciting for Saskatoons developing food scene. The citys chefs are eager to collaborate with him and we are certain to hear more from Saskatchewan after he returns home to contribute to their unique food culture.
