Back-to-school fever was just too contagious for me to escape. As the subject of my studies is typically wine, I headed to California for a one-day intensive at UC Davis’ impressive viticulture and enology facilities.
Presented by the Catena Institute of Wine, the program kicked off with a few words from the tireless Laura Catena. She reminded us that wine makes us happy, food taste better, is good for health in moderation and brings other cultures to our tables. But before we could be lulled into a false sense of security, she switched gears. The ensuing 24 hours were about science. It was time to put my geek hat on and attend scientist led seminars on subjects such as virus-free plant material and phylloxera research.
No school curriculum is complete without a field trip. Ours was an excursion to UC Davis’ foundation vineyard, which essentially acts a nursery for nurseries. Here we sampled freshly harvested grapes to compare Malbec selections from France (brooding and tannic) with those from Argentina (concentrated and bursting with ripe fruit).
Tasting is of course the best part about wine school and the final session had us evaluating Malbec from three different plots within the same vineyard. The goal? To determine if the resulting wines tasted any different. Indeed they did. If there are differences between plots so close together imagine the diversity of wines from further afield.
The whole idea behind the Catena Institute of Wine is to elevate wine quality while finding sustainable innovations. And while it has a direct impact on the Catena Zapata winery in Argentina, their findings will no doubt benefit the Argentine wine industry as a whole.
As they continue their work in the laboratory, you can sip on this very fine selection of Malbec and do your own comparison between France and Argentina.
2011 Château Labrande, Malbec • Cahors AOC, France • $17.49
France’s southwestern region of Cahors boasted plantings of Malbec long before this grape was brought over to Argentina. However, the wines remained relatively obscure until Argentina brought notoriety to Malbec. French counterparts share the same dark colour and body but tend to be a bit earthier and firmer than those from Argentina. Check out the Château Labrande with grilled sausages.
2012 Le Gouleyant, Malbec • Cahors AOC, France • $19.13*
Gouleyant translates as drinkable, or even better, gulpable. And this wine certainly is. Cahor’s telltale tannins are kept in check with the focus being on wild brambly fruit and subtle notes of underbrush. Cassoulet is a classic partner (that’s a hearty casserole of beans and pork).
2012 Catena, High Mountain Vines, Malbec • Argentina • $22.79
Catena is famous for planting Malbec at lofty elevations despite warnings that it would be too cool for it to ripen. That was 20 years ago and they’ve never had a problem. Instead, lush black cherry and cassis are freshened up by pure floral notes of violets and lavender. Superb with herb crusted pork chops.
2012 Altos las Hormigos, Reserva Malbec • Valle de Uco, Argentina • $30.99
Also hailing from high altitude vineyards, Altos las Hormigos is an elegant, minerally and structured expression of Malbec. Bright red fruit meet chocolate, leather and grilled herbs. It’s fit for a fancy steak dinner.
*Private wine stores only, prices may vary. All other wines available at BC Liquor Stores. All prices exclusive of taxes.
