Despite some North American writers declaring brunch to be dead (apparently, it’s a classist expression of opulence by narcissistic urban swanksters…yeah, mull over that for a while), Vancouver’s brunch scene is definitely on the rise.
This is thanks in large part to places like Medina, winner of this year’s Best of the City award for Best Brunch. No surprise here, as the consistent line-ups at the larger and brighter new space tell their own story. Well, that and the happy vibe consisting of enthusiastic eating and animated chatter that seems to be the soundtrack. Maybe it’s due to the fact that the joint is named after the owner’s wife. It sounds like a great love song, ‘cause everything here is singing.
Owner Robbie Kane (along with chef Jonathan Chovancek) has recreated brunch as something far more interesting than your standard benny or bacon-and-eggs combo. With Middle Eastern influences, and the use of local, sustainable and seasonal ingredients, these are dishes worthy of a pasha. From something as simple and satisfying as the peameal bacon and egg sandwich with caramelized lemon aioli to the decadent braised short rib fricassée (or the sherry-roasted mushroom version), this is a menu that will satiate both soul and stomach.
The Belgian liège waffles are still things of beauty, especially paired with the chocolate-lavender sauce. Not to miss: The mascarpone with black pepper honey. This is an inspired pairing, especially when matched with wood stone blistered flatbread.
Come once, come often. It’s worth the wait.
