Vij’s
3106 Cambie | 604-736-6664 | VijsRestaurant.ca
Open nightly for dinner from 5:30pm. No reservations.
It’s like watching a favourite niece grow up; you cherish the memories of the cute toddler, but realize that the grown-up iteration has an appealing assurance, if lacking in warm cuddlies. So it is with Vij’s in its new location, which, after a two-year delay, finally opened in its Cambie Street home this past winter.
The new space is considerably larger than the old “Jewel Box” in South Granville (the latter is still available to rent for private events). There’s a lounge now where you can wait for your table (no more line-ups in the rain) and have a cocktail or three, along with the complimentary bites that are passed around frequently. Stained glass panels surround the room, which sits between the kitchen and bar. Blue and orange chai cups cover the ceiling. It’s a cozy and comfortable space, and much more interesting than the actual dining room.
The latter is brown and bland. And, the sound volume can often be beyond the pale. Sitting across from my friend one night at a two-seater, we had to repeat ourselves with every exchange, eventually lapsing into a disgruntled silence. Noise-reducing panels on the walls and ceiling would go a long way here.
Service, however, led by GM and sommelier Mike Bernardo, is faultless. It almost seems like there are too many servers in the room at times. Frequent check-ins at each table by rotating staff are common. Everyone’s on top of everything and the timing in the kitchen is spot on. Despite, or perhaps because of this, the vibe feels a little more formal in this new space. There’s less of that relaxed, let’s-roll-up-our-sleeves-and-dig-in feel that characterized the old location. The exception is when Vikram Vij himself is making the rounds. He was there on two out of three visits, and it made the heavy formality lift like a temporary comedic break during a funeral dirge.
As for the food, this is one area where change has yet to come. The much-lauded lamb popsicles are still here ($32) as is the grilled venison ($29.50). One of my favourites, the pork tenderloin, is just as delicious, with its pork hock-infused curry base. Yet, is it wrong that, nine months after opening, I expect to see something new? That being said, there is a new menu, but it’s limited and only available on the rooftop patio.
The patio isn’t large, but it has all the makings of a charming space. String lights, wooden benches softened with pillows, and nice views of the mountains all combine to create a fun space to while away the summer. No kitchen up here, as of yet, so warming pans are, unfortunately, in use. Small chaat (snacks) like shortrib papri (similar to a crispy taco) with sour cream chutney ($10) are nice nibbles, as is a lentil pâté served with aromatic fenugreek crackers ($12). The rest of the menu is mainly limited to a handful of rice bowls. Nothing off the regular menu, including the lamb popsicles, is available up here, but the lamb curry bowl in a creamy fennel seed sauce ($17) is more than decent. It feels a bit spare, however, and doesn’t tend to lend itself to extended al fresco feasting.
The best part of the menu, whether on the patio or downstairs, is the liquid section. Jay Jones is the beverage director for the restaurant group and can often be found behind the bar, mixing up standout cocktails using premium spirits like Vij’s own Bolly Water gin, produced in collaboration with Okanagan Crush Pad. And, the wine list is still an oenophile’s delight.
The food is still excellent here, and perhaps my disappointment in the lack of change and the less-relaxed atmosphere is unjustified. Vij’s was, and continues to be, a revolutionary concept for Asian dining in Vancouver. No doubt, when the menu changes, it will be exciting and fresh, and blow me away once again. Until then, I’ll try to be patient.
Food: ★★★1/2
Service: ★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★★1/2
All ratings out of five stars.
★: Okay, nothing memorable.
★★: Good, shows promise.
★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent.
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average.
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way.
Anya Levykh is a freelance food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
