Well, yes and no. I would never say that bigger is better or smaller is more beautiful. Both large- and small-scale wines have their merits. Just for starters, wineries with greater scales of economy often have the ability to offer wines at a more attractive (aka less expensive) price point.
But there is something to be said about wines produced on a more limited scale. Though not necessarily a given, a single vineyard wine, for example, has the potential to demonstrate the distinctiveness of a very specific place. Others may be a unique expression of something experimental.
Following are a handful of ‘small batch’ wines from some great producers both large and small.
2013 De Martino, Viejas Tinajas Muscat • Itata Valley, Chile • $30, private wine stores
De Martino isn't ‘micro’ but many of their wines are produced in limited quantities. The Muscat is aged in 100-year-old clay amphorae and left in contact with the skins for six months, harkening back to winemaking techniques of the past. Intense aromas of orange marmalade and lovely white flowers give way to flavours of honey, citrus peel, apricot and ginger. Marquis Wine Cellars has about 80 bottles, so pick one up while you can.
2012 Cameron Hughes, Lot 487 Field Blend • Lodi, California • $17.79, BC Liquor Stores
Cameron Hughes makes a lot of different wines, but each in small quantities. His business model is very savvy. He seeks out fruit from top-notch vineyards willing to sell grapes at a good price and makes one-off cuvées. The only stipulation is that he doesn’t reveal the exact source. Here Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Tempranillo come together for a rich, full-bodied, fruit-driven but honest red. Excellent quality and value for money.
2013 Sandhill, Small Lots Syrah, Phantom Creek Vineyard • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $35, winery direct
Sandhill’s small lots program is winemaker Howard Soon’s playground. It allows him to highlight what is special and try out new things. This Syrah is a specific vineyard designate from Phantom Creek in the south Okanagan, yielding just 10 barrels. Expect lush black plum, prune, chocolate and clove along with meaty peppery notes and some toasty oak.
n/v Marie-Courtin Résonance Extra Brut • Champagne AOC, France • $63, private wine stores
Many of the famous Champagne houses make millions of bottles a year. In order to furnish that production they buy from hundreds of tiny grape growers. Sometimes those growers decide to make their own Champagne rather than sell their grapes. Owning just 2.5 precious hectares, Marie-Courtin’s total production is about 6,000 bottles a year. Miniscule. So savour that steady stream of fine bubbles delivering chalky minerality, smoky flint, quince, luscious nectarine and jasmine. The Résonance is laser-sharp and rivals many similarly priced Champagnes from better-known houses. Kitsilano Wine Cellars stocks a small but continual supply.
2011 Fratelli Alessandria • Barolo Monvigliero DOCG, Italy • $71.99, BC Liquor Stores
This small family-run estate owns tiny plots of vineyards scattered around the region of Barolo. They bottle the best separately, crafting three “cru” or single-vineyard cuvées. From the Monvigliero cru, they eke out only 600 cases. We’re lucky to get a few of these in BC. It’s a fairly delicate style of Barolo with absolutely gorgeous scents of rose, aromatic herb and mineral. The palate is firm yet still fine with red fruit, flowers and a hint of peach. Elegant, long and savoury, this has a good 10-15 years ahead of it. Collector alert!
