You can walk by Baker & Table Cafe (6414 Fraser St.) and almost miss it. Squished between raucous grocers, a busy sushi spot, and a Chinese café, there is the cozy and relaxed domain of baker Hitomi Syvertsen. The 16-seat space is a long rectangle that feels a little out of place on this busy commercial strip in the South Hill neighbourhood, but that’s not a bad thing. This is a street that’s teeming with people rushing from one store to another, getting through errands before picking up kids from school or starting dinner. Syvertsen’s café is a welcome oasis from all the bustle.
The white-washed walls are sparsely decorated, but it’s a soft light that bathes everything in a vintage glow, from the Formica-topped tables to the mismatched chairs and the crockpots behind the counter. Those crockpots are filled with a rotating selection of soups and stews, such as a cream of broccoli with chopped veggies, or a solid vegetarian mushroom curry. Have one as part of a set menu ($15.50) that includes a sandwich or curry, dessert, and tea or coffee. Or pair it with one of the really great sandwiches that are made with house-made bread and locally-sourced organic meats from Maple Ridge. Something as simple as the grilled cheese – with avocado, tomato and bacon – is revelatory.
A bourbon brown-sugar pulled-pork sandwich ($8) also makes an appearance in one of the muffin-shaped rolls ($3), which range from savoury flavours like the above-mentioned pulled pork and a lovely roasted potato and cheddar, to sweet iterations like salted caramel apple and the Nagoya (red bean with sweet butter). There are also various melon pan ($3.5), a large, dome-shaped bun named for its shape; try it in chocolate, matcha, or sweet milk, and look for more flavours in the near future.
The coffee, from Republica Coffee Roasters, is excellent, as are the loose-leaf teas. Just be prepared to wait if you order something iced, as it’s a made-from-scratch process.
Meanwhile, in Chinatown, Klaus’s Kaffee Haus (291 E. Pender St.) is all about the classic Austrian flavours of strudel, palatschinken, and delicatessen fare, such as goulash and hearty sandwiches. Of the latter, the Kaizer Franz Joseph panini ($9.75) is a wonder. Stuffed with smoky speck ham, Swiss cheese, arugula and shaved red onion, it’s a lovely, cheesy, mayo-dripping mess of a sandwich that is a glutton’s wet dream. Austrian potato salad comes standard with all sandwiches, and it isn’t the mayo-based version you’re used to. Instead, the potatoes and onions are dressed in oil and vinegar for a bright, clean flavour that pairs rather well with the rich sandwiches.
The real stars here, though, are the strudels. Available with both sweet and savoury fillings, it’s the paper-thin pastry that makes these such a joy. Just like baba used to make, the slightly crispy dough is thin enough to almost melt at first bite, but sturdy enough to hold together the tightly loaded interior. Slices range from $5 to $7, and while the apple, plum and chocolate-hazelnut options are all delicious, you really shouldn’t miss the mushroom-asparagus, strewn with herbs and packed with caramelized onions. Likewise, the ham and cheese is a lovely toasted fistful, and makes a perfect sub for a sandwich, especially when paired with the meaty goulash.
If you’re wondering about the palatschinken, this is the Austrian word for crepe. There are only two options here, either with Nutella and whipped cream, or an even more decadent version with cranberry sauce, ice cream and Viennese whipped cream. I’d love to see a savoury version, as these crepes are light and perfectly cooked, with slightly crispy edges.
The level of care given to every detail here is impressive, from the tea served in a reverse filter with extra hot water and a choice of sugars in wooden cubbies, to the plating of the sandwiches and that wicked potato salad. Klaus’s also started serving daily breakfast a few weeks ago, of which the sausage rolls with maple syrup are especially worth a visit.
Anya Levykh is a food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
