They are not the underdogs, they are the underground. They are the rebels, the agitators, the oenological anarchists. Formerly offensive, the term Garagiste referred to winemakers in Bordeaux who rejected winemaking conventions and crafted limited-batch wines in their garages: vins de garage. These subversive wines, steeped in exclusivity, became quite fashionable, and the term has since been reclaimed, frequently boasting some of the most interesting and innovative wines on the market.
British Columbia has no shortage of garagistes; but, naturally, most people have never heard of them. Small production often means no tasting rooms to visit, limited budgets for marketing, and small profits (meaning most of the winemakers have not quit their day jobs). Many don’t have their own winemaking facilities, thus forging an intimate culture of “wine families,” as artisans utilize the amenities of more established wineries such as Meyer Family Vineyards and Okanagan Crush Pad.
But you should know them. These wines come from the passionate core of some of the Okanagan’s most fervent winemakers. Their wines are architectural. Their stories are relevant. And their wines are made for you. Not for profits. Not for fame. In the true spirit of art, these wines are made for the sake of good wine. And for that reason, you should keep your earholes alerted. Tap into the sacred (and often under-siege) British Columbian convention of supporting arts and culture. Do your research, spread the word, and hold your finger on the pulse of these up-and-coming wines.
To wit, Garagiste North – an annual wine festival for the little guys – was formed in 2014, and has since been hailed as one of the coolest wine festivals in the world. If you are lucky enough to snag a ticket to the tasting, be prepared to interact with the winemakers! Learn their stories, and taste the blood, sweat, and tears that forged their fabulous concoctions.
Here are some great wines, and great stories, to dip your toes into this avant-garde world of grapes. You will not find these wines in the liquor stores, so be prepared to purchase direct, or start a wine scavenger hunt with your friends!
Anarchist Vineyard
Osoyoos-based small-lot artisan winemakers with a focus on ecosystem (all wines are grown amidst the untouched Mountain Grasslands region) and sustainability. Their intention is Burgundian-style wines, but they are self-described as being “nimble” and they get downright experimental. Their 2015 Elevation Chardonnay is deliciously round yet crisp, with a minerality that truly credits the rocky mountain on which it was grown. Only 130 cases produced.
Tall Tale Wine
A perfect example of why the Garagiste North festival is important: Tall Tale Wine is Summerland winemaker Kyle Lyon’s first vintage release, which explains why you cannot find any information online, not even a website! Keep an eye out for his delicately hued but easy-drinking Pinot Noir Blanc (2016).
Only 300 cases produced.
Marionette Winery
Another winery dedicated to heartfelt expression of BC terroir, as well as giving back to the land from which they take (sustainability is on the forefront). Marionette’s proprietary blend, Entwined, plays with an extremely aromatic yet uncommon varietal, Sieggeberre, blended with Pinot Gris. It’s floral with sweet spices and tones of warm honey.
The Salmon Arm-based producers have only made 14,000 bottles of wine since starting in 2014.
