No one cares to mark the transition of Fall to Winter. They dont lament the passing of Winter to Spring. Nor do they even notice the change from Spring to Summer. But the shift from Summer to Fall? Ah, thats the big one the reserve of Shelley and Vivaldi, keeper of halcyon charms a plenty.
Despite our anticipation of its cozy sweaters, cocoa, and (initially) intoxicating smells of fallen leaves, we nevertheless brood at its onset. In Vancouver especially, Fall is when we remember the long dark tunnel ahead, the one we almost forgot; the only dark tunnel in the world in which it rains (and rains and rains). The first official day of Fall September 22 is at the tail end of next week, and though that date will pass without much rejoicing, for local lovers of good food and drink, its really not so bad.
To begin with, its the harvest. Our farmers markets are really hitting their stride right now with fruits, berries, root vegetables, corn, onions, lettuces, garlic, leeks, and so much more. BBQ season might be coming to a close, and trading it in for pumpkin pie, scalloped potatoes, and slow braises? Thats hardly a mean exchange. The Main Street and Kerrisdale markets dont close until October 3 and 6 respectively, and the rest will stay open until October 20 (the last day for Kits is the 21st). Then its the turn of the Winter Farmers Market, which opens November 3 and runs every Saturday from 10am until 2pm in the parking lot of Nat Bailey Stadium until the close of April. (Get all the details at EatLocal.org).
I dont know about you, but the seasonal transition affects my drinking habits, too. Ive been on a steady course of white wine, rose, and summer cocktails for several months now, but autumn invariably steers me back to mighty red wines, heavier beers, ports, sherries, and whiskies of every provenance. (Im a big scotch fan, particularly Islays, and Ill be opening a bottle of Lagavulins 1994 Distillers Edition as soon as the leaves on my street start to change colour). Fall heralds the return of Vancouvers Hopscotch Festival, which runs from November 12 to 18, and I plan on being among its 4,000+ sippers, tasting my way through some 250 different whiskies, beers, and spirits (HopscotchFestival.com).
And before the whisky, naturally, comes the wine. Cornucopia, Whistlers annual (and invariably debaucherous) celebration of wine and food runs from November 7 to 11 this year (WhistlerCornucopia.com), and well before that theres the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival, a 10-day extravaganza that goes from September 28 to October 7 (TheWineFestivals.com). Ill be there and back home in time for Canadian Thanksgiving, when I hope to uncork some of the big reds that I picked up on my summer travels through California. For the turkey (one), Ill be pairing a couple bottles of the recently released JoieFarm 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir.
Really, the only thing messing with my Fall at the moment is the impending NHL lockout. While were still eating our Thanksgiving leftovers, our Canucks are supposed to fly to Calgary to start the regular season on October 11. Alas, without a collective bargaining agreement in place, there will be no hockey, and a Fall without hockey in Vancouver is just as disruptive to a sizable percentage of the local restaurant trade as it is to fans. Sports bars and establishments close to Rogers Arena will more than likely see a significant drop in trade.
Thankfully, our restaurant scene is diverse and resilient enough to withstand the tantrums of millionaires (and not a few billionaires). Fall will see the arrival of a bunch of newcomers. The highly anticipated Spanish restaurant Espana on Denman could open shortly after this goes to print, and then its the turn of the new location of Finchs in Strathcona, the comfort food-hawking Lily Maes in Gastown, the vegetarian-themed Heirloom in South Granville, and so on.
In the interim, we can indulge in quite a few secret spots currently flying under the radar, such as Hogans Alley Cafe in Chinatown (789 Gore). Its not new per se, but its under new ownership. A Mexican couple recently purchased it, and though theyve yet to change the name of the business, theyve steered its concentration away from coffee and baked goods toward authentic Mexican dishes (killer tacos). And just around the corner at Harvest Community Foods (243 Union St.), former Bishops chef Andrea Carlson, truly one of Canadas top culinary talents, has just taken over operations. Were told that the little local, organic, sustainable grocery will start serving a variety of Asian-style soups including proper Japanese ramen as early as next week.
Like I said, its not so bad. But should none of the above work out for you and the dark, rainy tunnel still proves too daunting to face head on, try easing into it with a cathartic dish or two. Invest in the French onion soup at Les Faux Bourgeois, the Beef Bourguignon at Kitsilanos Bistrot Bistro, or the Fettucine Bolognese at Cioppinos in Yaletown. One or the other usually does the trick for me. Failing that, remember your Shelley: There is a harmony in autumn, and a luster in its sky, which through the summer is not heard or seen...
