In this column last month, while qualifying where Frasers Outpost Cafe stood in the limited pantheon of Vancouvers superlative neighbourhood cafés, I made brief mention of Le Marché St. George.
I was under the false impression that Id written about it at length before, so I was brief in my description. Alas, it turns out that I had not penned a single word about the East Side gem before. And so....
If youve never been or heard of it before, dont sweat it. Le Marché the product of local artist Janaki Larsen and her partner Pascal Roy only opened this past winter on the main floor of a Victorian pile way out of the way at East 28th and St. George (far enough off the foodie radar to warrant only the occasional media peep). They dont advertise, preen through PR, tweet or do the Facebook thing, and yet they do not want for customers. And for good reason.
There arent really enough seats to call it a café. I reckon theres no more than seven spots for bums (not counting a few outside on the sidewalk). The only two tables are marble-topped with circumferences comparable to small pizzas. It certainly wasnt designed with the modern laptop and latte-camping crowd in mind, and still the urge to linger is compelling.
The draw has much to do with its marvelously easygoing look and feel. The little room, Rockwellian with a distinctly European accent, testifies that charm was a test it never had to take. It exudes as much quiet comfort in itself as confidence in its customers to get it.
From its antique patisserie cabinet and broad floorboards to the gorgeous finishes on the walls and the Bebel Gilberto on the hi-fi, the meticulously arranged atmosphere makes one instantly at ease.
Even though it may be tricky to classify it as a café due to its tiny footprint, Le Marché nevertheless pulls mean shots of espresso on a small but sturdy Nuova Simonelli machine.
The prices are comparably fair ($2.50 a shot) and the beans come from a good, local company (Oughtred, roasting in Delta). The cups are a pleasure to hold and they come plated on heirloom pewter/silver trays complete with equally old- school tea spoons. The barista, Janakis photographer sister Klee, is self-taught, keen and capable.
Teas are well considered, with organics from Clipper in England and the classics from New Yorks Harney & Sons. The baked goods among them excellent pain au chocolate ($3.50) and croissants ($2.75) come from Kitsilanos Plaisir Sucré, as do the baguettes ($2.90) and selection of rustic loaves ($4.50). The simple paninis there are usually three different types served daily are amply stuffed and hover in the $7.95 range (the delightful ham and brie on sourdough number I enjoyed last week came smeared with Dijon and seasoned with black pepper).
But its strengths dont stop there. In addition to being a quasi-cafe and an ideal place to while away an untroubled hour, its also a quasi-general store with plenty to offer those who like high quality edibles.
Its shelves are carefully curated with local and imported products of unimpeachable provenance. These include preserves from Mission Hill Family Estate Winery; boxes of Canadian sea salt from Vancouver Island Salt Co.; organic flour from Anitas in Chilliwack; jarred pestos and spreads from Vancouvers own Jules & Kent; a variety of locally produced vinegars; and jars of Nubas addictive pickled cabbage.
Inside the stand-up cooler, further beauts abound. There are whole chickens and duck prosciutto from Agassizs Polderside Farm (arguably purveyors of B.C.s best fowl); cheeses and goats milk from The Farm House in the Fraser Valley; fresh Hazelspring eggs; ice creams from Birchwood Dairy in Abbotsford; and other bits of packaged deliciousness.
Were pretty much selling what we love, a house-proud Klee told me. Such affection goes beyond food and drink, too.
There are dreamy linens from Lithuania, thick blankets from Oaxaca and throws from local designer Isabelle Dunlop. Need iodine or a homeopathic preparation for hay fever or infant colic? They have it (Pascal studied Chinese medicine and has set up an micro-apothecary). Childrens books? Check. Dry pasta? Indeed. Diapers? Sure.
After just five months, Le Marché St. George is quietly firing on all cylinders, giving us exactly what we want out of a neighbourhood café without fully subscribing to the definition. It gives us much more: a place to sip, plan a meal, eat, shop, meet a friend, feel at home and invest in a second cup (and yes, there are even power outlets for laptoppers).
Really, the only thing missing that could possibly make it feel more intoxicatingly comfortable would be a wood-burning fireplace and maybe some Bach cello concertos.
Best of all, the people at the counter arent disinterested tweens on an after-school lark, but rather a tightly knit family that takes its role in the furtherance of our good times to heart.
In this, the Age of Venti, such genuine accommodation is increasingly rare, and as such, Le Marché St. George deserves to be celebrated. If you havent been yet, go!
4393 St. George, 604-565-5107, MarcheStGeorge.com
