Virtuous Pie
583 Main St.
604-620-0060
virtuouspie.com
Open Sun-Thurs, 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm
So, here I am, writing about a plant-based eatery for the second week in a row. Am I becoming a vegetarian? A vegan? Sorry. Nope. Chalk it up to the luck of the stars or my craving for pizza – either one works.
Despite its slightly prudish name, the interior of Virtuous Pie, a recent addition to Chinatown, gives off mega-hip vibes. The long, narrow room is bright, with high ceilings, communal wood tables grouped along one side, and the kitchen and ordering counter along the other. It’s part of the increasingly popular “fast-casual” breed of restaurant: You order at the counter and clean up after yourself, but the food is made from quality ingredients and prepared with care.
People still seem a bit confused as to whether they should sit after ordering, especially at a table that might already be occupied by one or two people (each can seat at least eight comfortably). But that’s more a symptom of locals’ standoffishness than a fault of the restaurant. Perhaps with time, customers will become easy with the idea of sitting opposite and next to strangers.
The most important part of any pizza is the dough, so let’s talk about that first. It’s good. Really good. This isn’t verace Napoletana, but it doesn’t need to be. It’s thin, but not too thin, with a crispy base and an interior that offers a pleasant chew. Even better for celiacs and all those avoiding the dreaded “G,” the gluten-free version (courtesy of NextJen and available for an extra three dollars) is just as good.
As for the toppings, the eight pizzas on the menu range from a simple Margherita ($10) with San Marzano tomatoes and cashew mozzarella, to a more exotic jackfruit-and-hoisin option ($12). If you’re looking for the “cheesy-queasy” factor of regular cheese, you may be disappointed: There was no stringy gooeyness here. The flavour of the “mozza” was delicate, yes, but almost overpowered by the slightly spicy, very good tomato sauce. When the pizza was still hot and fresh, the texture was less distinguishable, but as soon as it cooled slightly (think a couple minutes later), it developed a strange plastic texture – easy to bite through, but slightly gelatinous.
That same not-cheese made an appearance on the Superfunghi ($12), along with a truffle almond ricotta. There was a lot to admire in this pizza. A decent Bianca (white sauce) was topped with a thin layer of herbaceous potato before perfectly cooked mushrooms and crisp rocket were added. But the truffle ricotta didn’t taste of truffle and only faintly resembled ricotta, and the texture became almost hard after a few bites. Perhaps for someone used to eating “cheez,” this would be acceptable. I was left wondering why they bothered in the first place, as I’d have enjoyed the pizza more without it (although truffles are always welcome).
The jackfruit – or “Kim-Jack” – pie ($12) is an interesting combination that has serious potential. Gochujang-braised jackfruit is paired with kimchi, roasted broccolini, scallions, cashew mozzarella and hoisin “crema.” The gochujang and kimchi gave it a nice kick without burning the buds, but the hoisin crema overpowered most of the flavours, including the natural savoury-sweetness of the jackfruit itself. A little more balance here would work wonders. Much better was the “sausage” and fennel, with its earthy and almost-too-rich palate.
Virtuous Pie also offers a couple of rotating salads and various flavours of ice cream (dairy-free, natch). A southwest avocado salad ($4 as a side; $10 as a main) was excellent, built with gluten-free fusilli, corn, feta, black beans, red cabbage, tomato, and a very tasty avocado-lime dressing. It’s also a bit of a bargain: The side portion came in a small but deep bowl that almost filled me up before my pizza was ready.
I only tried two of the nine flavours of ice cream: “Hawaiian” vanilla was too chalky to finish and, at $5 for a small scoop, felt stingy. Slightly better was salted caramel and pecan. The overall range of flavours (turmeric and black pepper; matcha coconut) appeared too heavy and overpowering after what were rather filling pies. A clean sorbet option, like lemon or raspberry, would have been more appreciated after some of the heartier pizzas.
There is good value to be had here. Each pie is about 10 inches in diameter and most are $12. One will fill you up, no question, especially if paired with a side salad.
Ratings:
Food: ★★
Service: n/a
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★1/2
All ratings out of five stars.
★: Okay, nothing memorable
★★: Good, shows promise
★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way
Anya Levykh is a freelance food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
