Some of my most memorable travel experiences have taken place on trains — that brilliantly sunny day when my beloved father and I enjoyed a ride to Whistler months before he passed away, or the years we’d hop on the train from Nova Scotia back home to Quebec after spending the summer at the beach.
So, when I was invited for a weekend getaway to one of America’s hippest, most eclectic, food crazed cities — oh and let’s not forget a top 10 best local microbrew destination according to Travel + Leisure — I didn’t hesitate.
Whether you call it P-Town, Stump Town, the City of Roses or Bridge City, Portland boasts some of the most lauded food trucks (600 and counting) and eateries, a multicultural blend of residents and a booming art scene. Even the buildings exude a mix of heritage and avant garde aesthetic any hipster would love.
Meanwhile, there’s something fundamentally “old world” about travelling by rail.
We began our journey at the Pacific Central Station in Vancouver where we boarded an early morning Amtrak Cascades train for our eight-hour trip. Within less than an hour, as we snaked towards Bellingham, the landscape changed from cityscape to rural.
There’s nothing quite like watching the countryside roll by from the comfort of your seat — sipping a glass of wine, smiling at the thought of those stressed out car commuters stuck in traffic jams.
We soon befriended fellow rail rider Shannon Sweeney who was looking forward to a girls’ getaway and opted for the train for the same reason as us — to avoid traffic congestion and relax and enjoy the views along the route that one can only see by railway.
We also met Charles, a transplanted Portlandite who was more than happy to talk about the city’s best attributes: “There is a common saying about Portland, ‘Keep Portland Weird’ and the city lives up to this in so many ways. We have one bronze sculpture of a naked lady in the centre of town that drew lots of negative comments when it first went in over 30 years ago. It’s now a very popular photo opportunity.”
Charles added, “Portland is a walkable, clean and well laid out city, and if one doesn’t prefer to walk, there are ample options for public transportation that are easy to use. I love architecture and good design, and Portland has done a fine job of re-developing its old warehouses and factories into a district of great restaurants, cool bars, farmer-style markets and many places to shop that emphasize the artisan culture that Portlandites embrace.”
As we bid adieu to our new friends, the arrival into Union Station was a wonderful first impression for any traveller who appreciates history and architecture.
When in Rome, or in this case Portland
You know those one-of-a-kind eateries that are so authentic, those beloved hangouts you just have to pry the names out of from the locals? Portland is filled with favourite local haunts and my partner Brent and I were given front row seats to several.
Here’s just a small sampling:
A self-professed carnivore, Brent reluctantly agreed to dine at Natural Selections in the Alberta Arts district. This part of town is still being gentrified and it’s a diverse mix of little shops and small intimate restaurants. As Brent perused the menu with a resigned look on his face, he checked out entrees such as the kale and Asian pear salad, winter squash tartar and roasted sunchoke with fennel and apple jus.
After cajoling him to try, Brent dug in forgetting we were supposed to be sharing. Chef Aaron Woo came over and Brent had to admit that his creative team of cooks changed his outlook about vegan dining.
Another night, we went to one of the most touted hotspots in the city — Andina. This upscale authentic Peruvian restaurant assaults all of your senses in the most delicious way. The dishes and flavours carry stories all their own, as does the music and art work. Words such as adventurous, modern, inventive, and tickle your taste buds can be used to describe the cuisine. You know those eateries where you just don’t want the culinary journey to end? That’s Andina.
Nestled in the Pearl District, Nuvrei Patisserie & Cafe’s croissants, macaroons and other Parisian confections could stand proud in France. We arrived mid-morning and the lineup snaked out the door but we didn’t have to wait long. Brent looked to be in Nirvana as he bit into a buttery warm croissant, then into a bright red macaroon. I was equally impressed by the avocado turkey and house-made sage sausage bagel sandwiches. (I didn’t eat both, although I could have).
What do Arnold Palmer, Memphis Mafia and Maple Bacon have in common? They are names of some of the fried holy cakes at Voodoo Donuts. They are nearly a religion here. If there was ever a business that captured the quirky spirit of Portland, it’s Voodoo.
P.S. The food-trucks are an attraction all their own and definitely worthy of a visit. Then, head to one of the many green spaces throughout the city for a picnic, including its famous Japanese Garden or Lan Su Chinese Garden.
Where to Stay in Portland
Portland is one of those cities with a strong sense of self. With its funky, whimsical and exciting art and design scene, many hotels here are nothing short of unique. We were invited to stay at the Hotel Monaco in the heart of downtown, close to the Pearl District, the famous Powell’s Books (you can lose yourself for hours in this landmark literature institution) and Pioneer Square. The plush bold fuschia lobby is a great place to be for its complimentary wine and beer socials offered in the lobby. (Fabulous appies too and some nights feature a local pianist).
As we boarded our train heading back home, we both agreed that Portland is worth another visit.
