Whistler’s Cornucopia food and drink celebration just wrapped up its 20th annual edition. Over the years, the festival has grown from a single weekend to 11 full days of dinners and events, with welcome additions such as an onsite wine store and a Top 20 wine competition.
This year saw the introduction of Cornucopia’s first-ever Wine Summit, which I had the honour of moderating. The day-long, trade-based conference focused on issues facing our industry, from the bevy of new liquor regulations to what’s happening in our local vineyards. The underlying theme was how – and if – BC wine should present itself on the world stage.
While the topics raised weren’t necessarily new, it was perhaps the first time they were threaded together in a public forum that involved professionals from beyond our borders. London-based wine writer Dr. Jamie Goode gave the keynote address. Best known for his excellent website, WineAnorak.com, he is also the author of a number of books, including Wine Science and the newly released I Taste Red.
Encouraging exports, Dr. Goode is adamant that BC needs to have greater ambitions than just serving our local market. He clearly likes our wine, but he believes that being taken seriously on the world stage will only continue to push the quality up. He sees a great opportunity, as most people outside of Canada haven’t heard about our wine. Getting the message right from the beginning is crucial.
“You have one chance to make a first impression,” Goode said. He cautioned against the “We do a lot of things well” approach, which he considers “a disaster for marketing.” His general advice boiled down to determining key skills and developing a strong identity. He also reminded us that we are in no rush.
As for his top picks? Dr. Goode pointed to Riesling and sparkling wine, as well as light to mid-weight reds made from Pinot Noir, Gamay and Syrah. He also suggested that while big reds may work well commercially, “focusing on them is not the future, and dilutes the message of what BC can actually do well with.”
Food for thought.
Based on Dr. Goode’s evaluation, the following represent BC’s best foot forward.
Bella Sparkling Wine
Talk about focus. Bella exclusively makes sparkling wine, sourcing Chardonnay and Gamay Noir grapes from various sites – from Kamloops to the Similkameen and all throughout the Okanagan Valley. Get on their mailing list at BellaWines.ca to secure upcoming releases.
2015 Culmina ‘Decora’ Riesling • Okanagan Valley VQA • $21 (Direct from winery)
Riesling is a winner in our vineyards, and the Decora is just one great example. Essentially dry, with intense and persistent flavours of quince, nectarine, lime, and subtle herb blossom.
2014 Tantalus Chardonnay • Okanagan Valley VQA • $26 (Direct from winery)
Though Dr. Goode didn’t reference Chardonnay in particular, he did give a nod to Tantalus in general. Here, integrated oak and succulent-yet-restrained fruit produce a highly drinkable and complex Chardonnay.
2015 Spierhead Pinot Noir Cuvée • Okanagan Valley VQA • $38 (Direct from winery)
While Spierhead’s Pinot Noir portfolio is solid across the board, the Cuvée represents a selection of the best barrels. Made in limited quantities, so best to snap up this new release while you can.
2014 Quails Gate ‘The Boswell’ Syrah • Okanagan Valley • $50 (Direct from winery)
The Boswell captures the great potential of this grape in BC. Brooding dark-cherry and smoke notes lifted by sage and pepper, with layered fruit and a mouth-caressing texture.
Prices exclusive of taxes. Also available at private wine stores (prices vary).
