Like many folk, I cut my teeth on Aussie Shiraz. Specifically it was Seaview which I tasted at a pre-service pow-wow during my tenure at The Fish House in Stanley Park. I couldn’t help falling for this friendly, fruit-driven charmer. It even played a part in launching my wine career. My studies have taken me well beyond Aussie Shiraz. And I’ll admit that for a while I wrote them off as all the same.
Occasionally, I like being proven wrong. Australia is an enormous country producing a whole lot of wine. Truly it’s foolish to believe that all Shiraz is made equal, yes? Indeed! Over the last few years, a parade of regionally specific Shiraz has infiltrated the market highlighting the differences this grape is capable of.
The broad comparison is between warm climates versus cooler climates. The Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale fall into the former category. Large, luscious, rich and full-bodied, their Shiraz is chock-a-block with ripe dark fruit, luxurious tannin and heady alcohol. Despite their girth, they’re capable of balance and diversity. Sultry Hunter Valley is also decidedly warm and her velvety textured Shiraz marry chocolate with enticing earthy leathery notes.
Cooler regions on the other hand, tend to show more elegance and restraint incorporating savoury peppery nuances and even a ripe herbal component. In South Australia, Adelaide Hills is a great example demonstrated in particular by Longview Vineyard.
The wine state of Victoria possesses plenty of cool hunting ground. In the Yarra Valley, Shiraz is sometimes even called Syrah and co-fermented with Viognier borrowing traditional practices from Northern Rhône’s Côte-Rôtie region. Check out Yering Station Village label to taste how this plays out. Then there’s Heathcote, where chilly nights moderate temperatures and vines are grown on ancient greenstone soil. The resulting wines are dense and dark with firm acidity and minerality lending freshness. Tar & Roses displays this brilliantly.
Australia is the theme country at this year’s Vancouver International Wine Festival and the global focus is Syrah/Shiraz. It’s the perfect storm for rekindling your relationship with Aussie Shiraz. If you do revel in the mouth coating, full-throttle fruit, you’ll have plenty to chew on. Just be prepared for some refreshing surprises. All of the wines noted above and those recommended below will be poured in the main tasting room and available for purchase on site.
• The 37th annual Vancouver International Wine Festival runs Feb.20 to March 1. VanWineFest.ca
2011 Xanadu Next of Kin Shiraz • Margaret River, Western Australia • $16.99, BC Liquor Stores
The region of Margaret River is cooled by the Indian Ocean. Blackberry with a hint of pepper and subtle floral notes, the Next of Kin is spicy and assertive. Great value.
2013 Wakefield Shiraz • Clare Valley, South Australia • $23.99, BC Liquor Stores
Chilly evenings influence the style of Shiraz in Clare. Restrained but pure black currant flavours are offset by mint and green peppercorn. Not exuberant but definitely juicy and intriguing.
2012 Teusner, The Riebke Shiraz • Barossa Valley, South Australia • $29.99, BC Liquor Stores
Concentrated cassis, blueberries, coffee and dark chocolate seduce. Rich, layered and full but never tiring, this deftly balanced Shiraz deserves some lamb.
2012 Tahbilk Shiraz • Nagambie Lakes, Victoria • $28-32, private wine stores only
Black plum, leather and exotic spice with fine supple tannins. Surprisingly elegant for a richer wine and especially warming with braised meat.
2010 Fowles, Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz • Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria • $39.99 BC Liquor Stores
From the cooler reaches of the Strathbogie Ranges in Victoria. Aromas of black cherry, meat and a snap of black pepper are echoed on the lush palate. Voluptuous but not tawdry. Serve with venison.
