As promised, I'm devoting a second article to rosé this summer. This is unprecedented for me in single season.
My previous piece featured the pinks from Provence specifically. While these have been at the epicentre of the rosé revival, this region doesn't have a monopoly. Everyone is jumping on the pink bandwagon. I have never seen so many BC rosé, for example. Then there's Bollinger. This renowned Champagne house mostly avoided going pink until finally breaking down in 2008 and releasing a rose-hued non-vintage ($118.99 at BC Liquor Stores). And this year, California's Cupcake brand announced the addition of a rosé to their portfolio made in the Provençal mold.
The palest of pale and bone dry, Provence rosé has a very distinct identity. Its success has inspired wineries beyond the region to adjust their style. I've noticed a number that are now slightly paler and/or a little bit drier. Bordeaux, known for reds first, dessert and white wines second, and rosé in very last place, traditionally made a deeply coloured rosé (called Clairet) but the trend among producers is to lighten up. In terms of sweetness, Mateus from Portugal has responded to changing tastes, reducing the amount of residual sugar. Though it's still a little bit sweet, I have absolutely no qualms with it for $9.99.
Even if Provence has influenced others, not all are complete copycats. This makes for endless rosy options. I wanted to share some during the height of summer while pink consumption is surely reaching a fever pitch. The hottest days of the year simply demand it. However, these will also carry you through the fall because it's just as cool to drink rosé when its cool.
2016 Château Brown, Rosé, Bordeaux AOC, France $39.99BC Liquor Stores
This is one you need to get your hands on. From Bordeaux's incredible 2016 vintage, it blends 60 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon with 40 per cent Merlot. Only 2,200 bottles were made and our savvy wine buyer scooped most of them up for B.C. (kindly leaving the winery with a few for their own consumption). A short passage in lightly toasted oak adds a kiss of vanilla to the red currant and raspberry aromas. Full with sweet baking spice and herbs on palate, it will stand up to whatever meat you are pulling off the grill.
2016 Quails Gate, Rosé, Okanagan Valley BC VQA $16.99BC Liquor Stores
Looking at the residual sugar levels of this wine for the past few years, it has clearly been dialed back so it's barely there. Light pastel colour with delicate aromas strawberry, fleshy nectarine and a twist of rhubarb.
2016 Les Ligériens, Rosé d'Anjou AOC, France $16.99 BC Liquor Stores
So what if you like a little sweetness? Have no fear, this Loire Valley blend of Gamay and Grolleau has some pleasing sugar on the finish. Light and delicate, it offers cantaloupe, apple blossom and watermelon candy. Serve well-chilled for optimum refreshment. A great counter for spicy food.
2017 Trapiche, 'Pure' Rosé, Mendoza, Argentina $15.49BC Liquor Stores
While it's got the pale tone and is virtually dry, Trapiche's take on rosé sees Italy's Sangiovese grape thrown into the mix with Syrah. Subtle violet and thyme notes lead to a tangy sour cherry finish.
Prices exclusive of taxes
