The first thing I do when I return from a trip abroad is go for Asian food. But once my pho and sushi hankerings have been satisfied, I start craving the cuisine of what has unofficially become my second home. With mere weeks between jaunts to Italy you’d think that I would steer clear of Italian joints in Vancouver. Instead, they save me from serious pizza and pasta withdrawals.
More than just stopgaps, my favourite local Italian restaurants keep me coming back for the combination of food, atmosphere, service, and of course, the wine. Many lean toward a predominantly or all-Italian list combining great examples of the classics with lesser-known finds. And the passion with which they serve them reassures me that I am in good hands.
Savio Volpe is truly my local; if desperate I could crawl there. Not even a year old yet, this much-needed restaurant in the burgeoning Fraserhood area is always abuzz. I wouldn’t recommend it for an intimate rendezvous but for a casual date or lively gathering, absolutely. I’m also quite content to squeeze in at the bar by myself and never feel lonely. There with friends? Ask for some salumi and a bottle of n/v Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena Lambrusco di Sobara ($58) as soon you sit down. These will tide you over briefly as you strategize what to devour next. White anchovy, farro salad and tripe alla Parmigiana are all worth sharing. If you are lucky, they’ll have suckling pig on the spit. The wine list is a treasure trove of off the beaten track gems. A great go-with-all red is the lighter, juicy, floral and raspberry scented 2014 Valle Dell’Acate Il Frappato Vittoria Frappato DOC from Sicily ($12/glass or $60 bottle).
My pizza consumption has increased enormously in recent years thanks to the explosion of pizzerias around town. But it’s impossible for me to choose a favourite. So I’m going for the trifecta. Via Tevere and Nicli Antica tie for most authentic Italian pie. The former has the edge in terms of atmosphere while the latter trumps with its wine service and selection. Then there’s Nook. While their pizza is less napolitana in my opinion, it’s delicious in its own right. Plus, they have plenty of wines from the region of Campania where pizza as we know it is said to hail. The pizza test is the Margherita. It’s simply topped with tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil representing the colours of the Italian flag. With luscious peach and apricot and a smoky, minerally edge, the 2014 Venosìa, L’Ariella Greco di Tufo DOCG makes for a great regional match. It’s also conveniently served by the glass at all of the above.
La Buca always welcomes me with a warm embrace. The name roughly translates as ‘hole in the wall’ and indeed it is a charmingly small space. Despite its casual atmosphere, I have celebrated many special occasions (and non-occasions) here. Above all, chef Andrey Dubach’s cooking channels the generous spirit of the Italians. I am particularly inclined to go when my carnivore tendencies get the better of me. The Newport steak “Fiorentina” is Durbach’s rendition of traditional Tuscan dish bistecca alla fiorentina. This super flavourful thick cut steak is perfectly cooked (meaning no more than medium rare) then sliced against the grain and enthusiastically drizzled with top-quality olive oil. With flavours of red cherry, black tea and violets, the 2013 Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico compliments it beautifully ($19 for a 9oz quartino). If you are looking for added refinement, complexity and concentration, spring for a bottle the 2010 Petroio Chianti Classico Riserva ($85).
Another small though slightly more upscale gem is La Quercia. The cuisine predominantly references northern Italy, especially Piedmont where I seem to spend a lot of time. Chef and owner Adam Pegg has a way with pasta and manages to cook it truly al dente. The fresh sheet is always tempting but mainstay Agnolotti di Guido (veal stuffed hand main pasta in a brown butter sauce) is a must. The wine list is chockfull of great choices but I always end up drinking the same wine: Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo, Langhe DOC ($90). Currently the lovely 2012 vintage, it’s a selection of lots that don’t make it into Vietti’s exalted Barolo and Barbaresco bottlings. By no means substandard, Perbacco is an earlier drinking (and less expensive) example of Nebbiolo highlighting the fragrant rose aspect of this grape. Mint and strawberry chime in on the palate and are elegantly framed by firm tannin.
For good old Van-Italian comfort food, head to Arriva on Commercial Drive. The menu is a hit list of classics like linguine alle vongole, fettuccine alla carbonara and lasagne. There is a hint of nostalgia here, at least for me. I can’t really remember where I tried my first Chianti but it’s highly probable that it was at Arriva. Today, the wine list still sports plenty of familiar favourites from all over Italy with solid producers such as Banfi, Bertani, Frescobaldi and Masi. You’re sure to find something you’ll want to eat and drink. If you can’t decide, order a plate of rigatoni pesto pomodoro with a mixed green salad and wash it down with the house white. An undisclosed blend, it is likely based on Italy’s ubiquitous Trebbiano Toscano grape and is perfectly quaffable and thirst quenching.
When it comes to dining in Vancouver, we are spoilt for choice. But sometimes you just want the flavours of your home away from home. For this I thank our local restaurants for keeping me well fed (and slaked) when I am not in Italy.
Restaurant list prices quoted.
