I’ll admit that sometimes I let my enthusiasm for obscure varieties steal airtime from the classics. It’s not that I don’t appreciate better-known grapes. I just feel compelled to champion the underdog, which Sauvignon Blanc is anything but. This wildly popular grape certainly doesn’t need my help in terms of promotion. Rather, it is a vast sea that requires navigation.
I totally understand Sauvignon Blanc’s appeal. Pungent and zingy, it’s instantly recognizable and ultimately thirst quenching. I’ve indulged in many a satisfying glass. My complaint is that somewhere along the way too many slightly sweet, soft, dumbed-down versions started infiltrating the market. Sauvignon Blanc became plagued by an innocuous sameness.
While Sauvignon Blanc always tastes like Sauvignon Blanc, it can offer diversity. And it deserves to be known in all of its variations, from overtly herbaceous to intensely tropical, with others showing restraint and minerality. Though it’s usually aged in stainless steel to preserve all of those bright and vivacious aromas and flavours, the occasional example might see a bit of oak for added intrigue.
What better time than late spring to explore the refreshing world of dry Sauvignon Blanc? The assertive flavours of asparagus, arugula, watercress, scapes, basil and mint have inspired me to crack a few bottles.
Here are a few recommendations that go beyond simple gooseberry and lemon juice. As I put these together, there were plenty of other delicious gems that I left out. Expect to see them pop up in future columns.
2015 Viña Leyda, Reserva Sauvignon Blanc • Leyda Valley, Chile • $13.99, BC Liquor Stores
A stone’s throw away from Chile’s chilly coast, the Leyda Valley is making a name for itself with Sauvignon Blanc. The cool climate gives a less tropical, more restrained expression. Tangy lemon, pea shoot and green apple make this crisp white a great salad companion.
2015 Domaine Roc de Châteauvieux • Touraine Sauvignon AOP, France • $17.49, BC Liquor Stores
The Loire Valley is a must for Sauvignon fans. Here our featured grape is fairly discreet and steely in character with wet stone, mineral and subtle gooseberry notes. Besides over delivering for the price, the Roc de Châteauvieux is just so tasty with fresh goat cheese.
2014 Grand Bateau • Bordeaux Blanc AOC • France $22-24, private wine stores
The moderate maritime reaches of Bordeaux can make for a weightier style especially when oak is involved. The Grand Bateau demonstrates well-integrated vanilla along with fennel, nectarine, white currant and citrus nuances. Vibrant yet rich enough to stand up to chicken in a tarragon sauce.
2015 Rapaura Springs, Sauvignon Blanc • Marlborough, New Zealand • $26-28, private wine stores
The Rapaura Springs simply sings of the clean, crisp air and verdant landscape of Marlborough. Pure, concentrated flavours of passion fruit, freshly cut grass and zippy grapefruit burst from the glass. A treat with steamed mussels with lemon grass.
2015 Shaw + Smith, Sauvignon Blanc • Adelaide Hills, Australia • $40-43, private wine stores
Australia is probably not the first place you’d go looking for Sauv Blanc but the higher altitude vineyards of Adelaide Hills are delivering some gorgeous premium examples. Intense and focused lime, guava and white grapefruit offset by a hint of mint. Juicy and textured, this is worthy of spot prawns.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
