Andrey Durbach has never been known for West Coast cookery. While many other chefs in the city embrace light, fresh, “vegetable-forward” menus, Durbach comfortably stays true to his preferred niche – rib-sticking comfort food that is heavily based in la cucina povere (peasant food) of France and Italy. Think braises, stews, wild game, meat falling off bones.
With several restaurants under his belt already catering to his devotees (Pied-à-Terre, La Buca, Sardine Can), he would seem to have the market covered. But Gastown apparently has an endless appetite for Durbach’s style of elegant gluttony, as The Abbey, his latest venture in Gastown, amply proves.
The restaurant (in the old Wild Rice space) is fairly busy most nights, but not so busy you can’t walk in and get a table within a short turnaround. The main room has been redone with some stained glass accents (hence the name), and the two upper mezzanines would be great for private parties.
The wine list is as comfortable as the room. Expect seasonal changes, but with a dozen or so excellent by-the-glass offerings (any place that will pour me a glass of Tantalus Riesling is already a step up), most under the $13 mark, there are no wrong choices here. Bottles are also well-chosen, and although some soar north of $100, the quality is impeccable. Cocktails are solid, and craft sleeves for $7 are always acceptable.
The food menu is divided between snacks, small plates, and mains, and nothing breaks $24. Snacks include standouts like the chicken karaage ($10), deep-fried chunks of local, free-run meat served with togaroshi and spicy mayo. Or the Stilton with French toast bread pudding ($7.50); an interesting savoury take on a classic dessert. Wine-braised beef cheeks ($23.50) with celeriac puree, peas, and carrots is probably the most veggie-friendly dish you’ll find on the menu, apart from the salad. It’s classic Durbach; all meltingly-soft cheeks, perfect reductions, and a rich mash that makes you forget about potatoes. Lobster ravioli ($23.50) with crispy basil was another good choice, although after a couple of these dishes, I was starting to crave something green and astringent.
There are vegetarian options, like the wild mushroom risotto with shaved pecorino, part of Durbach’s annual wild game and mushroom festival, and available on a rotating basis until Nov. 2. The risotto is aromatic and rich, a battle between indulgence and restraint (guess who wins).
At this point, you might be surprised that I was able to make it to dessert on one visit. Peanut butter pie with sour cherries ($7) was decent (and rich), but could have used more of the sour and perhaps a little less butter. A simple panna cotta or dish of sorbet might be a nice balance to the overall lushness of the menu, but it’s a menu that is true to the chef, and with cool, wet nights coming aplenty, a little comfort food might be just the thing.
Food: ★★★★
Service: ★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★★★
