Getting to know Portuguese wine is a like learning a new language. Quite literally. Wines are typically labeled by regions and made from blends of unpronounceable grapes. Don’t expect to be fluent over night. Like any language, you’ll need to immerse yourself and stick with it. Summer is the perfect time to take a crash course on the ABCs of their whites (that’s brancoin Portuguese).
I’m warning you that the following wines aren’t the most widely distributed. However, for the love of wine, they’re worth seeking out.
A is for Arinto and Antão Vaz. The formeris grown throughout Portugal and prized for its minerality giving a crisp spine and freshness to many a blend. The latter, Antão Vaz is cultivatedpredominantlyin the southern Alentejo region, where it thrives in the warm dry conditions. It lends tropical aromas and adds weight.
2014 Esporão, Alandra Branco, Alentejo $16*
Alandra brings together Arinto and Antão Vaz for vibrant aromas of honeydew melon and apple blossom with greengage plum and nectarine. Fleshy yet cleansing, it calls sardines.
Tripling up on the Bs, may I first present Bical. This grapeis also known as ‘Borrado das Moscas’, which translates (politely) as ‘fly droppings’ due to the brown spots its skindevelops. Bical has an affinity forthe chalky clay soils in the delimited region (or DOC) of Bairrada in northern maritime Portugal and is grown throughout the broader area ofBeiras. Subtle in aromas, its calling card is a backbone of acidity.
2012 Luis Pato, Vinhas Velhas Branco, Beira Atlântico $25.99
HereBicalis blended with Cerceal and Sercialinho. Citrus, bay leafand lemon balm greet the nose while a creamy texture is balanced by succulent golden delicious apple. Friendly with just about any pork dish. Snag a bottle at the Alberni and Bute BC LDB store.
Cerceal isn’t the most important Portuguese white. Usually relegated to a minor role in blends, its contribution, however, is laudable. Austereand steely, it makes wines mouth watering.
2012 Porta dos Cavaleiros, Dão DOC $10*
Cerceal gives extra zip toEncruzado and Malvasia Fina.Expect baked apple, ripe pear and smoke notes withpineapple on palate. Rich but stilljuicy, it packspersonality for the price. Ideal for cornfricassée.
D and E go hand in hand. D is for Dão. Surrounded by mountains, this gorgeous region with its glinting granitic soiloffers the ideal terroir for E – Encruzado. Often compared to Chardonnay, Encruzado is made both oaked and unoaked and shows up as a single varietal as well as in blends.
2012 Alvaro Castro, Encruzado, Branco Reserva, Dão DOC $29.99
Leesy with white peach, lemon and chalk, this unoaked 100 per cent Encruzado, is slightly reminiscent of Chablis. Hello! Medium weight but elegantly balanced by bracing acidity, all it needs is some cheese.
Doubling up on the last round means I can slip one more letter in. I’m skipping all the way to V as Vinho Verde may already in your vocabulary. This cool wet region in the northern reaches of Portugal produces light lively whites. Styles vary but most of what we see is fizzy and a bit sweet with lower alcohol.
Casa de Oleiros, Vinho Verde DOC $18*
RevisitingA, Arinto is blended with the equally high-acid Azal. Despite a touch of sweetness, it’s still thirst quenching with lime, pink grapefruit and green apple sorbet. You’ll find this summer guzzler at LegacyLiquor Store.
*Private wine stores only, prices may vary. All other wines available at BC Liquor Stores. Prices exclusive of taxes.
