If you're a BC wine fan, chances are you've had a Pinot Noir or two. It's one of our most planted reds, second only to Merlot.
This early-ripening grape has an affinity for our cool climate. Cool you say? If you've been to the Okanagan in the height of summer, you'd be hard-pressed to qualify the weather as cool. However, in the grand scheme of things, the heat only lasts for a short amount of time sometimes presenting a challenge for later ripening grapes.
Despite its apparent compatibility with our climes, Pinot Noir is a finicky grape. Too hot and it loses its beautiful fresh fragrance, while too cold, it remains mean and vegetal. As such, site is really important in getting this grape just right. Careful treatment in the cellar is equally crucial. Pinot Noir requires a gentle touch and can easily be overwhelmed by too much oak. It's heartening to see some of our domestic producers demonstrating an understanding of Pinot Noir's capricious nature.
Pinot Noir has even been proposed as BC's flagship grape. Certainly it's the only red grown in all our wine regions. Besides substantial plantings in the Okanagan Valley, Pinot Noir has had success in the neighbouring Similkameen Valley and is particularly promising in the emerging regions of the Kootenays and Lillooet. It's also making a name for itself in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island and can be found on Salt Spring Island and in the Fraser Valley.
BC Day provides a great excuse to delve deeper into our local Pinots. And if you desire a full immersion, don't miss the third annual BC Pinot Noir Celebration in Kaleden on Saturday, Aug. 22. This festival brings together a collection of our best Pinot Noir producers and is an exciting opportunity to hear renowned British wine expert Steven Spurrier weigh in on our homegrown gems.
2013 SpierHead, Pinot Noir • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $22-25
Hailing from East Kelowna, the SpierHead Pinot offers herbal, maraschino cherry, cola and sarsaparilla notes. The palate is plush but not overdone with crunchy acidity. Great with grilled chicken or tuna.
2013 Unsworth Vineyards, Pinot Noir • Cowichan Valley, BC • $25-28
In the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island, Unsworth has just released its first vintage of Pinot Noir. The palest of reds, it could almost be mistaken for a rosé. Pretty hints of cherry blossom, red cherry and balsam wood make this a lovely picnic Pinot alongside cheese and pâté.
2013 Meyer, Pinot Noir • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $25-28
A blend of Meyer’s own vineyards on the Naramata Bench and Okanagan Falls along with grapes from selected sites throughout the Okanagan. It seduces with a silky texture and charms with flavours of sweet strawberries and raspberries. A classic with salmon.
2012 Tantalus, Pinot Noir • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $26-29
Full disclosure, I have a bias towards this wine as I helped picked the grapes though I take no credit for its success. Crafted from estate fruit from their vineyard in South East Kelowna, Tantalus' Pinot is a bit more firm and brooding with wild flowers and black fruit. Substantial enough to stand up to duck or pork.
2012 Howling Bluff, ‘Summa Quies’ Pinot Noir • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $35-40
Froma single vineyard on the Naramata Bench. About a third of the oak is new and makes itself politely known. Baked red berries and clove meet smoky, earthy notes that work a treat with barbecued Portobello mushrooms.
• All wines are available winery direct and at selective private retailers.
