Starting this week, weve decided to let Anya Levykh loose. In her new column, The Dish, Anya will share her insights and opinions about a different restaurant, watering hole, café, or sweet spot each week. One of the citys most respected food & drink writers, Anya will share the highs and lows of her edible adventures, and let readers know about the best places to drink, dine and indulge.
Vancouver, once a gastronomic desert where one did not look for authenticity, has become a culinary mecca in recent years for all things authentic, whether that be Verace Pizza Napoletana or bahn mi. Sometimes, it seems like that authenticity can go a bit too far, especially when it involves the use of imported ingredients over local produce. In Italy, for instance, most chefs would not consider importing Canadian tomatoes to use on a salad or pizza when fresh and local is available and preferred. Pazzo! they would cry. (Cra!)
Robert Belcham, executive chef and co-owner of Campagnolo and Campagnolo Roma, has a similar ethos. So, while the influence of the menus at both restaurants is Italian, the sourcing is from the best of BCs bounty, whether referring to tomatoes, pork (which Belcham butchers himself), or craft brews. (In fact, Belchams butchery and curing skills are legendary, and his homespun line of salumi, The Cure, can be found at several of the top restaurants in the city.)
Now, that ethos has expanded to a lounge that has opened above the original Campagnolo on Main Street. Upstairs at Campagnolo has a Prohibition style and speakeasy vibe complete with casual cocktails and bites that conform to the local/sustainable line. In partnership with director of operations (and co-owner) Tim Pittman, Upstairs has opened with little fanfare and much flavour.
The cocktails, heavy on classics and barrel-aging, are mixed and managed by Peter Van de Reep, who also runs the wine and beer program.
The Lucien Gaudin ($12) is one of several barrel-aged winners, mixing Brokers gin, Cointreau, dry vermouth and Campari. Smoky and hinting at sweet, its a brilliant combination that works quite nicely with the food.
If beer is more your thing, theres plenty to growl over in appreciation, as Boston rounds (smaller-sized growlers) of neighbour Brassneck Brewerys offerings are available, as well as selections from Red Racer, Driftwood and Campagnolos own ale.
Wines are all available by the glass (three reds, three whites, one sparkling), and theres even Philips root beer and Mexican Coke for teetotallers.
It make for a fun night of mix-and-match with the constantly-changing menu developed by Belcham and chef de cuisine Nathan Lowey. The super-awesome corn dogs ($8), a massive trio made from Belchams own mortadella, emulsified into smooth, juicy, and dense links, are deep-fried in a rice flour, tapioca starch and cornmeal blend that hints at jalapeño, but never shouts. The burger from the late-lamented Refuel is also back, albeit with cheese ($8). The toasted bun and juicy patty (not to mention the secret sauce) were sorely missed, but I found the cheese gratuitous and longed for the simplicity of the original. Devilled eggs ($1.25 each), soaked in soy and mirin, then whipped with mayo, white miso, and todarashi before being topped with nori, were well-balanced and went down with the greatest of ease. Paper bags of pork crackling ($6) and Loweys sweet-spiced hazelnuts and pecans ($5) are perfect for beer-buddy nights.
Watch for around three rotating daily features, with standbys like the burger and Belchams cured meats in for the long haul.
Food: ????
Service: ???1/2
Ambiance: ????
Overall: ????
All ratings out of five stars.
Open Wednesday-Sunday, 5pm to late.
Upstairs at Campagnolo | 1020 Main St.
Catch up with Anya next week at the Vancouver International Wine Festival tasting rooms, as well as the Chapoutier dinner at Hawksworth on Sunday night. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio Ones On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday.
