Mexican fever has been running high in Vancouver for a few years now. When Las Tortas opened on Cambie, people flocked for the classic two-fister sandwiches. When La Tacqueria introduced their authentic palm-sized tacos with hormone-free meats, a resounding “Olé!” went up from the masses. And with the more recent opening of places like Sal y Limon, La Mezcaleria and Los Cuervos, those fantastic eats just keep coming and coming.
So, then, where to put Gringo? This tiny space in Blood Alley is where Judas Goat used to live. The lack of a kitchen – the prep counter behind the bar is the sum total of the available work space – means most of the menu is actually prepped off-site, then ingredients are reheated and assembled for items like tacos, hot dogs, quesadillas, etc. All of the hooch is covered in pink tissue paper (no lie) so you can’t see the labels. This is a step-up, I suppose, from an earlier visit, when the bottles were wrapped in brown paper bags. Cheap beer flows like it’s going out of style, and the difference between the “crap” and “ok” tequila is indistinguishable.
Gringo, is, by its look and feel, a watering hole, a dive, a modern-day speakeasy where restaurant staff, coming off long and late shifts, can go to throw down a few “cheap ass” bourbons or sleeves, shovel some hot food into their mouths, then totter home to sleep for a few hours before heading back into the trenches.
But, if that’s the case, why bother having Karl Gregg, owner of Big Lou’s Butcher Shop, consult on the menu? The food is prepared in his commissary in Richmond, but it doesn’t seem to have helped much. My bartender informed me that the meat also comes from Big Lou’s. A trio ($8) of tacos (there are five on the menu) wasn’t promising. White shrimp with chimmichurri and tomatillo was mushy and bland.
The “house-seasoned” ground chuck with salsa and green onion was dry, as was the “Mazatlan” pork. Both were spiced identically, meaning I couldn’t really catch the flavour of the meats at all, just the chewy dry texture beneath a heavy helping of heat.
The chili rice bowl ($7) also could have used some moisture and felt like something I used to throw together in university when time and money were both short. The street dog ($6) was a slight improvement, with queso, avocado cream, salsa and pickled onions. The guacamole ($7), made to order, was also better than on a previous visit.
Gringo is, unfortunately, living down to its name, but I don’t think it’s doing itself or its patrons any favours. Even Friday night drunks deserve better.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★
Service: ★★1/2
Ambiance: ★★
Overall: ★★
★: Okay, nothing memorable.
★★: Good, shows promise.
★★★: Very Good, occasionally excellent.
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average.
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way.
Open Monday-Thursday, 12pm-1am, Friday-Saturday, 12pm-2am.
Gringo | 27 Blood Alley | 604-721-0607
Facebook.com/GringoGastown
Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday.
