Gentrification isn’t always a bad thing. The former warehouse district that is now Yaletown has turned a once-derelict piece of land into a thriving urban waterfront neighbourhood. Gastown, formerly a tired tourist trap, has become a dining and drinking mecca that seems to see a new concept open every week. While some may complain about the number of higher-priced restaurants and retail operations, it’s good to remember that the best neighbourhoods are those that cater to a diverse range of interests and tastes. Gastown is, thank goodness, more than just a glorified hipster ghetto, especially when it comes to food and drink. Next time you’re strolling through, consider making a pit stop at one or all of these places to celebrate just some of the delicious diversity of the cobbled heart of the city.
Secret Location
It’s not so secret, but it is quite stunning. The room may seem a bit posh for Gastown from the outside, but step through the doors and the warmly excellent service and outstanding food will change your mind. Executive chef Jefferson Alvarez is a modernist master who takes you on a culinary adventure with each dish. It’s not about monster ribs, here. Rather, it’s about ribs that have been slow-cooked for three days, or foie gras that is transformed into a “powder” that creams onto bread with the lightest swipe of a knife. With a front-of-house led by the über-talented Phillipe Reigh, Secret Location delivers an unforgettable experience every single time. SecretLocation.ca
The Diamond
Cocktails are the glue that holds a thriving nightlife together. In Gastown, there are several watering holes that keep the thirsty masses well-lubed with craft spirits, housemade bitters and tinctures, and innovative recipes. The Diamond is one such locale, and one of the earliest to appear in the revitalized neighbourhood. Head man behind the wood Thor Paulson whips up Prohibition-era drinks with an easy flick of the wrist, as well as innovative “re-boots” of signature cocktails from more recent decades. Di6mond.com
Hi-Five Grilled Cheese
What better after dinner and cocktails than late-night greasy food noshing? Enter the Lilliputian premises of Hi-Five, a tiny window on East Cordova that serves up several varieties of grilled cheese sandwiches. Operated by Corben Winfield, co-owner of 6 Acres, it’s only open after 8pm, Thursday through Saturday. The limited but excellent menu features the lovely Art Basil, a heady concoction of Gruyere, fontina, honey and basil. Add bacon for $2 if you want to really live large. Mac ‘n’ cheese fans, rejoice. The 6 Acres-infused version is joined with American for an epic cheese-starch combo. And, at $6 for a sammie, you won’t be breaking the bank while stuffing your face.
Mosquito Dessert Bar
Dessert can be the best part of any meal, which is why I often choose to start with it. Executive chef/pastry mistress Julianne Hansen is a protegée of Bearfoot Bistro’s Dominic Fortin, as well as being a master pastry chef in her own right. Desserts are decadent and imaginative, like the pecan gianduja with cassis foam, dehydrated pecan sponge, pear gel and pear sorbet. There are even a few non-dessert items for those who just can’t bring themselves to eat dessert on an empty stomach (who are these people?). Pair with a champagne cocktail from the highly talented Vince Chan, and your night is complete. MosquitoDessert.com
Blacktail
Farm-to-fork has never had it this good. Executive chef Geoff Rogers sings the sustainable song well, but never sacrifices flavour and comfort at the locavore altar. Farmcrest Farms chicken with corn pudding, mushrooms and carrots is one of the few chicken dishes in the city I will order regularly. It’s a menu, and room, that speaks to an enlightened take on sustainable dining – one that puts you at ease and satiates both conscience and palate. Pair your food with a cocktail from the legendary Arthur Wynne, and, if you enjoy experimenting, go off-menu for bartender’s choice. Blacktail.ca
Wildebeest
Sometimes, the carnivore inside of me comes out with claws extended. When that happens, the only choice is the elegant meat-filled debauchery of Wildebeest. Executive chef Wesley Young champions whole-animal cookery and is deeply involved with local farmers in the raising of healthy, happy animals. The crispy pork schnitzel snack is a favourite, as are the roasted veal sweetbreads, but dishes like the seared venison and Cornish game hen that truly make for the memorable experience. Feeling particularly gluttonous? Order the whole roast duck with butter-braised kolrabi and go to town. (Okay, maybe share with one or two others.) Wildebeest.ca
Bao Down
One of the newest – and smallest – openings on this list, this little sandwich shop took over the old Lily Mae’s space and transformed it into a steamed bun temple of deliciousness. It’s hard to argue with $5 sandwiches, and choices like the pork two ways, with crispy skin pork belly and braised with star anise and ginger are never wrong. Not feeling the steamy love? No worries, other sammies are here, such as the grilled cheese with kimchi and miso mayo, or the wagyu beef dip with pho broth and hoisin glaze. Open from 11am until late, Bao Down is perfect for a quick grab ‘n’ go, or a late-night nosh. BaoDown.Ninja
Tacofino
This one didn’t originate in Gastown, but it’s definitely made its presence felt in the few short months it opened. The Baja-style soft tacos that gained fame at the original Tofino location have spread across the city like a tidal wave. The new Gastown location has become the flagship, and with it has come an expanded menu, new cocktails, and a fantastic burrito bar that serves up massive rolled meals with aplomb and lightning speed. Don’t miss the salmon ceviche and corn fritters while you’re stocking up octopus tostadas and lamb tacos, and make sure to come back as soon as the outdoor patio is up and runnning. Tacofino.com
