It’s well known now that BC has some very fine beer – but what’s going on with breweries down south? In honour of Independence Day this Saturday, I’m going to focus on that city directly south of us: Bellingham!
Yes, Bellingham. Chances are if you grew up in the Lower Mainland, the name “Bellingham” conjures images of lengthy border crossings, cheap gas and strip malls. And you’re not wrong!
But there’s plenty more to this small Washington city than you know. First, there are the well-preserved historical neighbourhoods, hugging the banks of Bellingham Bay. Then there’s the abundance of hiking and biking trails, and legions of friendly granola eager to share which ones they love best.
And there’s the beer. Bellingham has experienced a craft brewery growth-spurt in tandem to Vancouver’s. For years, Boundary Bay Brewing was the only show in town, but since 2012, there’s been a lift-off. By the end of 2015, there will be eight craft breweries in Bellingham, and at least 12 by 2016 (and several more in the surrounding Whatcom and Skagit Counties).
Not bad for a town of barely more than 80,000 people (who are all clearly very thirsty).
Quantity is fine, of course, but quality is the key. In June, the local breweries brought in a collective 14 medals at the Washington Beer Festival, which was a point of pride for just about everyone I met down there last month.
Suffice it to say, there’s great stuff. Here’s a curated guide to the beers of Bellingham, in case you feel like celebrating July 4 in ‘Murica. And you should. I’ve based this guide based on a bicycle tour, but weather-depending, you can take a designated driver (if you’re so blessed), or a cab. Or you can walk, if you’re feeling ambitious.
Chuckanut Brewery & Kitchen
Chuckanut is a bit of a diamond in the rough. Locals haven’t fully embraced this brewery the way they have others and that’s due in part to the fact that they don’t brew in the West Coast style. They specialize in European style lagers rather than big hoppy brews. And yet, throughout the rest of the US and Canada (Vancouver in particular), Chuckanut is renowned, particularly for its pilsners. In 2009, Chuckanut won Small Brewpub of the Year at the Great American Beer Festival, and in 2011 won Small Brewing Co. of the Year.
Highlight: Kolsch
Kulshan Brewing Co.
Named after the Native American name for Mount Baker, Kulshan’s opening coincided with the city’s newfound obsession with craft beer. Like all breweries here there’s a strong environmental element to the tasting room, to aesthetics and to the business practices (they launched the first Growler Exchange program in town).
Owner Dave Vitt calls it a “working class” brewery, and the beer is designed for drinkability and approachability, so anyone can walk in off the street and enjoy it. That shouldn’t negate the issue of quality though – their lineup is solid remarkably consistent.
There are actually two locations: on James Street and their new production facility / tasting room on Kentucky Street. Both are worth visiting, but the beer on tap is the same at both locations.
Highlight: Bastard IPA
Aslan Brewing Co.
No, it’s not named after the lion in Chronicles of Narnia. But it does mean “lion”, which explains their logo.
This is the biggest, hippest and most urban-feeling brewery in town, but there’s a noticeable hippy vibe here. They have at least 12 beers on at any given time, six of which are year-round. It’s approachable, drinkable and a well-rounded line-up rooted in the Pacific North West style of brewing, and all of it is 100 per cent organic. And while the food isn’t organic, everything’s locally sourced (well, the fish is from BC) and it’s all very well made.
Highlight: Blue Print Session IPA
The Local Public House
This is the taphouse for the Ferndale’s Menance Brewing, but it’s a great spot to find unique, difficult-to-find small batch beers from Washington, Oregon and (occasionally) BC. Everything here is either local or artisanal – even the soda. They specialize in pub fare done very well – a common trend, no doubt, but one that’s executed beautifully here. Curried fish and chips, smoked gouda mac and cheese and the fried chicken sandwich are all well worth it.
WHAT ELSE TO SEE?
If you are visiting on the Fourth of July, do what locals do. Bellinghamsters (yes, that is what they are actually called) line the beach around the bay at night and blow off fireworks. Some people spend literally thousands of dollars every year to celebrate their independence. It can be unmercifully loud, but it’s a cultural experience you won’t soon forget.
WHERE TO STAY?
The Bellwether Hotel is a beautiful seaside spot. It’s a tad on the pricey side, but as far as “luxury” hotels go – which this bills itself as – it’s quite reasonable. And with its nautical theme, supremely comfortable suites, sweeping views of Bellingham Bay and the Fairhaven peninsula, and excellent food options in and around the hotel, it’s well worth it. It’s also dangerously close to Chuckanut Brewery.
