Molli Café
1225 Burrard | 604-336-6554 | MolliCafe.com
Open Monday-Friday, 8:30am-7pm, Saturday 9am-7pm.
It’s a common story. Two young chefs meet during their university gastronomy studies in Mexico, then separate to do stages at El Bulli and El Celler de Can Roca. Then they meet up again while working Pujol, one of Mexico’s most famous restaurants. They then emigrate to Canada, and, after working for a few years at star kitchens like Tableau, Raincity Grill, and Diva at the Met, they decide to open their own little taqueria. Yeah, completely typical.
It shouldn’t be a surprise then, that the food at Molli Café is as unique and complex as its owners’ culinary backgrounds. Rafael Flores and Berenice Balbuena have opened their little loncheria (lunch café) on Burrard, just off Davie, in a small, unassuming space that features a few tables, some hightop seating, and a long counter at which to order. The menu is equally tiny, mainly covering some tacos and tortas, but each item boasts big flavours and is monumentally delicious.
Take the lamb soup (only available on Saturdays). This is a classic central Mexican recipe that’s popular for breakfast, and at $4.75 per bowl, it’s a ridiculous bargain. The clean and slightly sour broth (a consommé, really) is made from lamb neck that’s been braised for 12 hours. It’s then filled with chickpeas, avocado, rice, cilantro, onion and lime juice. Hearty, refreshing, with licks of heat that contrast perfectly with the brightness of the cilantro and lime, it’s a beautiful way to greet the day. The lamb is also pulled and made into barbacoa tacos (again, only on Saturdays). All of the tacos are $2.50-$2.75 each and are the traditional, hand-held, double-shelled numbers that places like La Taqueria have made popular. Molli’s tacos are addictive, especially the cochinita pibil with its juicy pulled pork (thanks to the achiote-chili marinade), slow-cooked black beans and locally-made fresh cheese. The version with just the cheese and beans is also excellent, suitable for a lighter appetite.
For something with more heft, the tortas ($8.50-$9.50) are revelatory. The Milanese, with its lightly-breaded beef, havarti and pickled jalapenos, almost beat out the pollo for my favourite torta ever. The latter is a succulent brined and pulled chicken paired with cheddar, avocado, spiced onions, tomato and cilantro.
Whatever you do, don’t miss the house drinks. The “Jamaica” is made from hibiscus, and has that plant’s tangy and refreshing palate. The horchata, a drink made from ground almonds or rice, vanilla and cinnamon, is so light and creamy that I found myself ordering two each time I visited. And, at the two dollar-mark, you won’t exactly break the bank by splurging.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★★
Service: ★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★★★
Overall: ★★★★
Anya Levykh is a freelance food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. In addition to obsessively collecting cookbooks, she is a judge for the Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
Rating guide:
★: Okay, nothing memorable.
★★: Good, shows promise.
★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent.
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average.
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way.
