Commercial Drive has been synonymous with Little Italy for decades. If you’re looking for authentic espresso, biscotti and salumi, this is still the place to go. The mom-and-pop pizzerias, such as Lombardo’s, are thriving, and the old men are still playing bocce in the park. When it comes to contemporary Italian food, however, it seems that the Drive is inspiring beyond its borders to points all over the city. Today, we have some innovative Italian restaurants that serve up seriously good food that goes beyond just pizza and pasta. Here are a few places you should visit to experience a proper dolce vita.
Ask for Luigi
Chef/owner JC Poirier has reaped more than a few accolades for his casual, just-east-of-Gastown eatery. While the anchovies and eggs ($12), with custardy yolks topped with salmon caviar, are justly famous, it’s lesser-known dishes like the squid ink arancini and eggplant polpette (vegetarian meatballs) that will leave your palate happy and enthralled. Don’t miss the very Italian brunch, with delights like the smoked cod with potatoes and poached egg, and pork belly with mushroom sugo. askforluigi.com
CinCin
Chef Andrew Richardson blew away the Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Award judges this year, which might account for CinCin’s gold for Best Italian. Richardson’s enthusiastic use of the monstrous wood-fired oven and grill adds smoky hints to everything from onions to meats to desserts, and infuses the elegant fare here with loads of umami. Try the rosemary-infused grilled prawns, the green risotto with summer truffle, and the pork tenderloin cooked over coals. cincin.net
Lupo
Chef Julio Gonzalez Perini and sommelier Michael Mameli are the owners and business duo behind this quiet Italian eatery on the outskirts of Yaletown, located in a refurbished heritage home. Everything from the sausages to the bread to the pasta is created in-house, and the wine list is usually a great place to discover some unexpected new favourites. Dishes like the stunning octopus “mosaic” dressed with a limoncello vinaigrette or the veal Milanese will give pleasure to both the eye and palate, while the ricotta gnocchi with pork cheek sugo is a great dish for cool summer nights. luporestaurant.ca
Cinara
While chef/ower Lucais Syme and chef Gill Book style this a “modern European restaurant,” there is a distinctly Italian ethos to the constantly rotating menu here. Simple dishes like white anchovy toast are elevated with maître d’hôtel butter and house pickles. Garganelli with bison heart ragu is a simple, rustic dish that delivers comfort and an almost-feral flavour There are a handful of cocktails here, but it’s the small and lovely wine list that you want to explore. cinara.ca
Savio Volpe
This top-ranked new restaurant has successfully bridged the gap between being a destination dining spot and neighbourhood hangout. Come in any night of the week and you’ll see courting couples, young families with hungry toddlers, groups of friends, and a regular rotation of singles at the bar. Co-owners Paul Grunberg and chef Mark Perrier (along with designer Craig Stanghetta) have crafted a menu and atmosphere that makes everyone feel welcomed, remembered and hungry. Playful sides sit next to technique-heavy pastas and braises. The garlic bread “all’Americano” is a fun – and delicious – riff on Safeway’s garlic bread, a childhood favourite of Grunberg’s. A braised rabbit dish from a few months ago was so buttery it slipped down the throat like a fine glass of wine. The orange cannoli, done in classic Sicilian style, rival Fratelli’s Bakery (and that’s saying something). saviovolpe.com
Italian for a Day
Italian Day on the Drive is a chance to practice your extravagant hand gestures and biggest smiles. It’s also a chance to eat your way through several blocks of delicious Italian fare. Merchants Workshop is changing its menu for one day only on June 8 to offer up an all-day menu of Italian dishes and drinks. merchantsoysterbar.ca
