Domaine de Beaurenard is a small, highly regarded property in the Southern Rhône appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France, that has been in the same family for seven generations. Victor Coulon, who represents the eighth generation, paid a visit to Vancouver last week. He is surely only in his 20s, but speaks like someone with decades of experience. He received his diploma in agronomy in 2012 and now works in all aspects of his family’s estate, from the vineyard to the winery, as well as sales and marketing. “I like it all,” he says.
Coulon wholeheartedly embraces the traditions passed down from his ancestors. Domaine de Beaurenard is one of just a few properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape that still uses all 13 authorized grapes in the blend. (Most stick to the main four: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut.) But he’s equally on board with recent evolutions. His father converted the property to organic farming and, since 2011, it is also Demeter-certified biodynamic. This holistic approach to farming takes organic viticulture to a whole other level. Coulon believes that using biodynamic practices and having a diversity of grape varieties are key in dealing with current global issues like increased disease in vineyards and the effects of climate change. His concerns are the long-term health of his vines and the reputation of the estate. “It’s my legacy and the legacy of my children,” he says.
How does it feel to be responsible for such a heritage? “Big pressure!” Coulon exclaims. “At some point, I felt it was too much, but then I decided I just have to make my own contribution to the process. I think about how lucky I am to be able to continue it.”
My conversation with Coulon got me thinking about BC’s own, very young industry. Most of the province’s wineries are still first-generation, although at some of the earliest established properties, the second generation is lending more than a helping hand.
When Summerhill Pyramid Winery founder Stephen Cipes decided to step back from his business, he hired a professional management company to help run the property. “They were treating it like a widget factory rather than something with heart and soul,” says Stephen’s son Ezra. Driven by a sense of duty and responsibility to their family, he and his brothers decided to get involved. Ezra gave up pursuing a music career and is now CEO of Summerhill. Rather than being a burden, he finds the responsibility freeing. “It gives you a real life purpose,” asserts Ezra.
Similar to Château du Beaurenard, most of Summerhill’s vineyards are certified organic, and the Summerhill vineyard in Kelowna is Demeter-certified biodynamic as of 2012.
I guess carrying on a family legacy is all about adopting an attitude of ‘blessing over burden.’ It also helps when that heritage is something you’re proud of. And, as Ezra points out, wine is way more compelling than widgets.
2013 Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($62.99, BC Liquor Stores)
There are a few bottles of the highly touted 2012 vintage left on our shelves, but the soon-to-be released 2013 is equally worth seeking out. Pretty and expressive, it offers dark wild cherry, licorice and violet, with bright acidity giving balance and a firm grip of tannin sneaking up on the finish.
Summerhill Cipes Brut ($25.49, BC Liquor Stores)
This BC classic has been produced for 25 years. A blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc gives pronounced lime and green-apple flavours. There’s a touch of sweetness on the entry, then racy acid takes over to cleanse the palate.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
