Most people visit Tuscany in more clement seasons than winter. The warmer weather is conducive to meandering through the region’s cypress-lined hills, picnicking amidst olive trees, eating grapes off the vines, and basking in that famous sun.
That said, even in early February I managed to soak up a few rays – though that wasn’t the purpose of my trip. I spent most of the week with my nose in a glass at the Anteprime, the first official showing of new releases from the most recent vintage.
Tuscany is a hotbed of wine denominations, with Chianti, Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino among Italy’s most renowned. Others that may ring a bell are Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Carmignano and Morellino di Scansano. All are based on Sangiovese, Italy’s most planted grape. While tangy acidity and chalky tannins are hallmarks of Sangiovese, these appellations demonstrate its wide range of expression, from juicy, straightforward wines with bright, sour red-cherry notes to more substantial offerings with complex nuances of tobacco, tea, violets and sweet herbs. I like to think there’s a Sangiovese for every palate and budget.
Not all the vintages I tasted are available in BC yet. In the meantime, here are some thoughts to pique your interest about what’s coming down the pipe, with recommendations from previous vintages to keep you sated while you wait.
Chianti is a vast area that covers vineyards extending beyond the historical zone known as Chianti Classico. Within Chianti there are several subzones with subtle differences, but overall, the wines are uncomplicated and make for satisfying everyday drinking. The warm 2015 and 2016 vintages impart some welcome flesh.
2015 Vicchio Le Calvane Quercione Chianti Colli Fiorentini ($18.99,BC Liquor Stores)
The 2015s are already starting to trickle in, and this has the juiciness I desire in my Chianti. Affordable and invigorating, it’s the perfect pizza wine.
Chianti Classico lies in the hills between Florence and Siena, and is a distinct denomination from the rest of Chianti. For me, it’s where I find the most refined examples of Sangiovese. Even in a challenging 2014 (marked by rain), the best producers made successful wines characterized by freshness, elegance and grace. We have an embarrassment of delicious Chianti Classico riches in BC that constantly crop up in my suggestions. Here’s yet another.
2011 Castello di Ama San Lorenzo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($51.99, BC Liquor Stores)
Collectors and Chianti Classico aficionados should not hesitate to splurge on this finessed single-vineyard bottling from one of the region’s great estates.
Brunello di Montalcino comes fromthe warmer area to the south of the Chianti regions. Unlike Chianti and Chianti Classico, which are allowed blend minor amounts of other grapes, Brunello is always made from 100-per-cent Sangiovese. It’s also aged four years before release, giving a distinctly savoury, earthy expression. I sampled the latest releases from the hot and highly touted 2012 vintage; overall, they demonstrated a surprising balance of alcohol, tannin and substance, if less nuance. I expect they’ll be popular.
2011 Pieri Agostina Brunello di Montalcino ($67.99, BC Liquor Stores)
Pieri Agostina represents good value in the world of premium-priced Brunello. Like 2012, the 2011 vintage was also hot, giving lots of robust dried fruit and baked herb.
Rosso di Montalcino is Brunello’s younger sibling. It’s also made from 100-per-cent Sangiovese, but is aged only for a year or so before release. The 2015s hit the mark for pure charm and exuberance – I’ll be drinking my fair share of these when they make their way here.
2014 Castiglion del Bosco Rosso di Montalcino ($25.99, BC Liquor Stores)
Though skinnier than the 2015s, the 2014s have their share of appeal. Here, pretty floral notes complement red cherries and raspberries.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
