So you go to a restaurant, enjoy the food and decide to go back for that reason alone. However the next time you go, it’s not the same. It could be due to inconsistency, one of the most challenging aspects to running a successful restaurant, or perhaps there was a change of chef you were unaware of. Regardless, you’re disappointed and may never return.
These situations happen often, and because of what I do, I take for granted being “in the loop” of who’s working where. Part of me feels like unless you’re industry, close to people in the industry or well-acquainted with the restaurant staff, it’s unlikely you’ll know or inquire about a chef change. For the most part, people don’t ask unless the food was drastically different, and it’s rare for a restaurant to advertise a chef change unless the previous chef was a disaster.
Generally, it’s not a good sign if a restaurant can’t keep a chef, but a change of chef isn’t always a bad thing. In most cases if the change is positive, the owners are enthusiastic to share, but if it’s a loss for the restaurant, then its hopes for a seamless transition or one that is unnoticeable – fair enough.
I bring up chef changes because I’m open to second chances. Far too often people write off a restaurant based on experiences that happened a long time ago. And in some cases, little do they know there was a chef change; and if the poor experience was based on the food, than a change in chef is possibly all they need to return again.
So here are a handful of restaurants that have had some recent chef changes. Some of them have been for over a year, but I still feel like people don’t know. Chef changes happen all around town, and for some reasons these are all in Gastown, and it’s definitely not the only place I dine.
Having a chef change might not affect your decision to visit or re-visit, but at least you can consider based on updated facts.
PiDGiN
Makoto Ono had a quiet exit and it wasn’t officially announced until March this year that the executive chef position was filled by Shin Suzuki. Suzuki is Canadian-born Japanese from Toronto and trained under chef Alain Solivérès in Paris.
Blacktail
From House X Guest to Blacktail Florist and now Blacktail… (I could be missing a name in between), this spot has had an identity crisis until now. Executive chef Geoff Rogers took over August last year, and he’s doing the restaurant good. I don’t expect it to change names as long as he’s cooking.
Bambudda
This is another one that has gone through growing pains. Executive chef Curtis Luk took over October last year, and he’s an excellent fit. Culinary trained in French cuisine, and with Chinese roots and recipes from his aunt, he’s doing modern Chinese justice. I went on Mother’s Day and loved it. Shout out to barman TarquinMelnyk who joined the team in May last year and has excelled their cocktail program. I must mention Luk is opening his own restaurant in Kitsilano soon, but I have no further information on his role at Bambudda once that happens. Consulting perhaps? I hope.
Wildebeest
This is the most recent change in Gastown. Executive chef Wesley Young has been here since 2013, but his last day was Tuesday, June 16. I’m not sure what he has up his sleeve, but rumour has it, it’s something on his own. Good luck, Wes!
Secret Location
I’m not sure if this change will make you stop scratching your head with this spot, but only time will tell! One of Vancouver’s underrated and under celebrated chefs has found a new home. Previously sous chef at MARKET by Jean-Georgoes, Montgomery Lau, aka “Monty”, has taken the executive chef position at Secret Location. Those familiar with the soft-spoken Monty know he can cook – like “lay the smack down” cook, and hopefully he can show us that here. He also trained chef Kevin Tang, winner of the Vancouver heat at the Hawksworth Young Chef Scholarship competition, which took place last week.
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