Grapes & Soda
1541 West 6 Ave
604-336-2456
GrapesAndSoda.ca
Open Wednesday to Sunday, 5pm-11pm.
“Oh, another wine bar opened?” my friend asks with rolled eyes and a dismissive shrug. I can’t blame her. Wine bars are becoming the norm, it seems.
And here is where your first preconception of Grapes and Soda gets smashed to bits. This isn’t just any wine bar. It’s Vancouver’s first (and, for now, only) natural wine bar, listing only natural, organic and biodynamic wines. The bottles mainly come from France and Italy, with some Canadian picks and some fortifieds from Spain. Most are offered by the glass, and it is around these that the food menu is built.
There goes your second misconception. The food here isn’t the typical wine bar charcuterie and cheese (although those are also available). It’s a menu that chef/co-owner David Gunawan (it’s right next door to big sister Farmer’s Apprentice) has designed to be true to his locavore ethos, except that each of the rotating handful of dishes on offer each night are designed to complement a specific wine.
It’s simple and pure, like the room, which mirrors its relation next door; all grey walls and light wood. The tables here have little drawers in which to stash your phone, and the kitchen is fronted by a wall of preserves under the counter. Nobody actually sits at the bar (standing room only), thanks to the narrow proportions, but the banquettes are cushioned and comfortable, and allow for longer lounging.
GM Hao-Yang keeps the guests relaxed and happy, while bar manager Satoshi Yonemore does divine things with local hooch, like the Green Collins ($12), a simple and stunning mix of G’vine gin, sorrel, fresh lemon and soda. The Stormy Flip ($12) was another standout, with aged rum, citrus marmalade curd, ginger beer and falernum. There’s only one beer (Four Winds) on the menu, but the bourbon, single malt and bottlers’ selections are top-notch.
If you can, come during happy hour (5-6:30pm each night), when all food is half-off. Even at full prices ($10-$12), though, these small share plates pack a lot of flavour and surprises, and are well-proportioned, thanks to Gunawan and his right-hand, Ron Shaw.
Smoked strips of sockeye salmon are dressed with mizuna and dotted with bits of ripe, local strawberries, large salmon roe, and rhubarb. It’s designed to pair with a natural rosé from the Loire valley. The wine picks up on the strawberry notes and perfectly balances the bright ikura and richness of the fish. It’s also a stunning sipper on its own, and at $8.50 for three ounces, is a steal. Oh yeah, all glasses are available in three- and five-ounce pours, meaning there are many choices under $10.
A chicken balantine was heavenly. The local grits were whipped and aerated into a puree so smooth and fine that we inhaled it off the plate. Studded with crumbled hazelnuts and tiny morels, and a smear of sorrel, it was our favourite of the night, in large part due to the perfect pairing with the Langhe Bianco from Roagna in Piedmonte. Chardonnay blended with a bit of Nebbiolo made for a perfect combination of buttery richness and slightly tickling acidity with a hint of frizzante. Beef tartare tossed with beets was slightly bland and could have used more punch, but marinated anchovies with lightly-pickled fennel and celery over olive oil croutons was excellent. Even desserts have pairings, albeit cocktails. Our sorrel sorbet ($7) over honeyed yogurt with juniper and meringue was paired with the Green Collins for a refreshing, light, and beautiful palate cleanser.
There’s no patio, but that won’t faze me from spending more than a few summer nights here.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★★★
Service: ★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★★★
Overall: ★★★★1/2
★: Okay, nothing memorable.
★★: Good, shows promise.
★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent.
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average.
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way.
Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday.
