Fanny Bay Oyster Bar
762 Cambie
778-379-9510
FannyBayOysters.com
Open Monday-Friday, 11am-late; Saturday-Sunday, 10:30am-late.
Unless you’ve been living under a rock with some reclusive molluscs for the last decade, the name Fanny Bay should instantly conjure up an image of big, juicy, local oysters. The Vancouver Island-based shellfish farm has been producing sustainable fruits of the sea to ever-growing applause, and is now globally recognized. With several species of oysters – including the eponymous variety that has justly made them famous – as well as clams and mussels, Fanny Bay has taken the guilt out of enjoying this succulent pelagic delicacy.
With the opening of its new – and first – oyster bar in downtown Vancouver, the hype and expectations were fairly high for what was termed Vancouver’s only “tide-to-table” restaurant. And, the ingredients do not disappoint. The oysters, whether the sweet and shallow Fanny Bays, or the deeply-cupped and complex Kusshis, are excellent and perfectly shucked. Geoduck sashimi ($18), delivered in a scallop shell, is delicate and fresh, served with pickled ginger and watermelon radish. Mussels and clams in a French broth are perfectly plump, although the Thai curry version is more flavourful.
Executive chef Chris Andraza has a fairly good hand when updating classics, like the “Oyster Casino,” which seem to be a light take on a classic Rockefeller. Bacon, roasted red peppers, bread crumbs and parmesan make for a fun dish. Surprisingly, not all items on this menu are Ocean Wise. The jumbo chipotle prawns ($16) are missing the distinctive marker, as are the crab cakes and the tomato-based chowder. The cream version of the latter ($9) is delicious and has the Ocean Wise symbol, if runnier than one would like, but the ceviche from another visit is overly sharp, with a malodorous vinegary scent that completely destroys the delicate taste of the mixed seafood. Seafood is the one thing that should never smell like what it is, but dousing it in so much acid makes the star ingredient redundant, both in taste and scent.
Service here is generally prompt and knowledgeable, if occasionally nervous. A wine order that fell through the cracks elicited three separate apologies within a five-minute interval before the actual glass was delivered. Otherwise, this is a friendly bunch and the casual vibe lends itself to extended and comfortable evenings drinking over large platters of bivalves.
Brunch here is also worth noting. “Kentucky fried” oysters and waffles ($14) are a pleasant change from the ubiquitous chicken, with a chili butter that gives just enough heat to spark the tongue without killing the buds. The smoked oyster fry-up ($14) is another good choice, with its mix of sautéed peppers, onions and spinach. The classic fish and chips ($17), made with beer-battered ling cod, are light on batter, with moist flesh and finger-lickin’ properties, especially when paired with the housemade tartare sauce.
The dinner menu has been inconsistent on the last few visits, but brunch and lunch are promising, and some dishes, like the pork belly and scallops ($17), are instant hits. It would be nice to see an entirely Ocean Wise or otherwise-accredited menu, but this is a good start for a first-time restaurant venture.
Food: ★★1/2
Service: ★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★★
All ratings out of five stars.
★: Okay, nothing memorable.
★★: Good, shows promise.
★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent.
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average.
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way.
• Anya Levykh is a freelance food, drink and travel writer who has covered all things ingestible for more than a decade. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
