By Marcus Kaulback
There are the obvious things that draw locals and tourists alike to Gastown: the cobbled streets, the classic heritage buildings, that delightful little statue of Gassy Jack. But there is more to this place than just the architecture. As with any good neighbourhood (and as cliché as it sounds to say it), its the people who make it what it is.
About six years ago, the people who now define Gastown started moving in. A generation of young chefs, restaurateurs, and bartenders, schooled in various parts of the city and the world, came to the unpolished neighbourhood looking to open their own places. Rent was cheap and the buildings were beautiful, and so, unsurprisingly, it was an obvious area in which to try their hands.
Nigel Springthorpe has been at Alibi Room for 14 years, and has seen Gastown change beyond recognition in that time. He agrees that the beginning of the change came about because of the opportunities, both spatially and economically, that Gastown afforded. It seems to me that when this whole Gastown explosion thing really started to happen a few years ago, these young entrepreneurs saw the opportunity to take advantage of some intrinsic architectural beauty within the commercial spaces available, and it became the location of choice for young industry professionals to set up shop and go it alone.
And for the most part, theyve succeeded. The immense majority of restaurants and cafés in Gastown today are owned and operated by those same young entrepreneurs who came here looking for the chance to open and run a place of their own. What this means is that these places embody the individuality, the passion, and the all-out commitment to quality that the owners have. With so much on the line, so much invested, both financially and personally, they truly are dedicated to ensuring that whoever walks through their doors has a positive and fulfilling experience; its a concern that translates into great personal service.
And this is what is really at the root of Gastowns success. Whether its Frankie Harrington at Meat & Bread, Paul Grunberg at LAbattoir, Neil Ingram at Boneta, or Josh Pape at The Diamond and now Wildebeest, just to name a few, what you get from Gastown is, as Springthorpe puts it, genuine service that comes from a place of integrity and honesty.
Andrew Morrison, editor of Scout Magazine, WE Vancouver restaurant critic and Gastown devotee, sees it that way, too. What makes the neighbourhood so special in terms of its eating and drinking establishments is the people who run them. This generation of young foodies and drinkies brings to it a casual, friendly, and passionate professionalism, which, according to Morrison, sets Gastown apart.
The issue now is with the fallout of all its success; the neighbourhood has become such a coveted area for commercial real estate that the cheap rent cant last forever. Morrison wonders whether the originals will be able to stick around when their leases come up in a few years. Its a legitimate concern, one also voiced by Springthorpe. Hopefully rental rates dont get pushed out of the range of other young, creative industry folks also who want to make their dream of going it alone happen down here.
Gastown is real and honest and dirty and beautiful, but it is nothing if not genuine, and the restaurants, bars, and cafés that have made it the citys premier dining destination have done so simply by embodying that authenticity.
LAbattoir 217 Carrall St. 604-568-1701
Its About page describes chef Lee Cooper and GM Paul Grunberg as dedicated to highlighting the finer points of eating and drinking in LAbattoirs informed yet informal setting. Add to that head barman Shaun Laytons devotion to a mix of the classic and the unique, and youre pretty much set. Layton has helmed the bar here since it opened two years ago, and his service style pervades the restaurants overall vibe, and even that of Gastown itself: laid back but committed to professionalism. The pride he has for his work is also very clear, as it manifests itself in the high-quality fresh ingredients, and the wide range of very unique spirits and liqueurs, that, when mixed together, produce some of the best cocktails in the city.
Jules Bistro 216 Abbott St. 604-669-0033
To properly pull it off in Gastown these days, to be respected and appreciated as an honest bar in this discerning neighbourhood, a few things have to come together: the room has to feel right, the ingredients used have to be of the highest quality, and the bartender has to know what theyre doing. Luckily for Jules, all three reside there. Beyond the weekly cocktail list from proven bartender Robert Holl-Allen (known around Gastown simply as H) Jules offers a very thoughtful wine list, one that seems to cover all the right notes at all the right price points, with enough variety to satisfy most everyone.
The Diamond 6 Powell St., 2nd floor
Its a lovely space with a lovely view overlooking Maple Tree Square that lends itself very well to quaffing some lovely cocktails good thing then that head barman Ron Oliver skillfully provides the latter. The bar at The Diamond is a perfect example of the whole being exactly equal to the sum of its parts, and thats a good thing because its parts are so fine: friendly service from professional staff, combined with first-rate ingredients, and keen attention to detail and tradition. Theres little wonder then why The Diamond is where Gastowns best bartenders happily send their own discerning customers to for one last cocktail.
Calabash Bistro 428 Carrall St. 604-568-5882
As might be expected from a Caribbean lounge, Calabashs bar is dedicated exclusively to the regions most pervasive spirit: rum. Boasting over 70 varieties from across the Caribbean the largest selection anywhere in Vancouver the bar at Calabash is unique. Complementing this diverse and fantastic spirit are fresh ingredients and house-made syrups, which, when mixed by head barman Jason Browne, will show you just how versatile and delicious rum can be.
The Keefer Bar 135 Keefer St. 604-688-1961
Weve expanded our limits here from Gastown into Chinatown, just so that we could include The Keefer Bar. For those unfamiliar with its particular allures, sit back and read on, and youll soon understand why we couldnt leave it out. The Keefer serves up what they call apothecary-style drinks, designed to soothe ailments and balance the drinkers mood. Traditional Chinese medicines, sourced from right in the neighbourhood, figure largely in the house-made tinctures, bitters, syrups, and teas, and give the pre-prohibition-influenced cocktails flavours and health benefits not seen at other bars. And they taste gorgeous.
The Sardine Can 26 Powell St. 604-568-1350
Dont let the name fool you Just kidding; its tiny in here. The size of the space, though, is an excellent, albeit oppositional, complement to the huge flavours of the dishes here. Serving exclusively Spanish-inspired food, The Sardine Can succeeds in recreating the intimacy of countless tapas joints in the old country. Menu standouts include the lamb cheeks with raisins, capers and pine nuts, the mushrooms in a sherry-cream sauce, and basically anything they else they have ever whipped up ever. The long and the short of it is that flights form YVR to Spain are going to be mighty empty in the future; theres just no need to make the trip now that weve got the real thing right here in Gastown.
Wildebeest 120 W. Hastings St. 604-687-6880
The philosophy of Gastowns newest addition is a warm and simple one: contemporary country cooking using locally sourced food to be shared and enjoyed together. The idea is to experience many small- to medium-sized dishes all expertly designed and created by head chef David Gunawan, formerly of West with the rest of your table, and to collectively experience how good they are. To ensure a quality product, Gunawan works directly with local protein producers and has even developed his own menus for the animals: chickens are fed vanilla yogurt, and pigs an organic mash, while cows are given flowers, grasses, and even a splash of wine from time to time. The gastronomically daring results speak for themselves.
Salt Tasting Room 45 Blood Alley 604-633-1912
Salt is simple: the menu consists of only 10 meats, 10 cheeses, and 10 condiments, and it is up to you, with a helpful and knowledgeable nudge from the staff, to create the tasting plate of your choice. The selections on the menu are changing all the time, but always reflect whats fresh, whats seasonally available, and, most of all, whats good. Come in for a full meal, or just whet the appetite with a small sampling at Salt, the choice is yours.
Judas Goat Taberna 27 Blood Alley 604-681-5090
Using what he learned from opening Salt, proprietor Sean Heather (The Irish Heather, Bitter, Penn Bakeshop) designed Judas Goat as a place to complement the rest of Gastowns establishments rather than to compete with them. The idea behind the Blood Alley tapas room is that you can nip in for a quick bite, enjoy the excellent pintxos, and walk, off on your evening to experience multiple places around the neighbourhood. But nobodys making you leave and with a menu so good you might be convinced to stick around.
Clough Club 212 Abbott St. 604-558-1581 (pictured)
Its a superior cocktail den in community chock-a-block with the things, but Clough Club doesnt deserve to be pigeonholed; the small plates it serves up are equally worth a try. Whereas most other tapas places in Gastown draw their inspiration from Iberia, France, or Italy, Donnellys Clough Club has looked elsewhere, to South America, for influence. This much is obvious in the crispy plantains and the quinoa fritters, two reasons why Clough Club, even with its exceptional cocktail program, appears here for its small plates.
Nicli Antica Pizzeria 62 E. Cordova St. 604-669-6985
At a time of night when most kitchens in Gastown are lights out, you can wander into Nicli and be treated to what Scout Magazines Andrew Morrison called the best pizza [hed] ever had in Vancouver. A big part of their decision to stay open late was the realization that the cooks and servers from Gastowns restaurants needed a place to grab a quick bite after work, and Nicli now rightfully takes pride in feeding the staff that feed the people. But of course you dont have to be industry to enjoy its authentic Neapolitan pies; everyone is welcome at Gastowns best pizza place.
Pourhouse 162 Water St. 604-568-7022
Consistency is the key to Pourhouses late-night success. Any night of the week you can glide through its doors and be welcomed into the warmth of its saloon-style bar, from where excellently crafted cocktails and a variety of superior craft beers are served. The mood is always inviting with its lights turned low and its long bar invoking a sense of comfort and calm and the food is a perfect accessory, with their Scotch egg and Pourhouse burger standing out among the rest of the equally tempting late-night menu.
Boneta 12 Water St. 604-684-1844
Moving to its new location at 12 Water St. hasnt slowed down this Gastown bigwig. If anything, the new Boneta is even more popular with the late-night crowd than it ever was on Cordova. The atmosphere, the remarkable cocktails, and of course the cast, including the ever-hospitable host Neil Ingram, all contribute to foster a sense of connectedness and belonging in the room. And while there, try the beef carpaccio, served with quail egg, or the proper poutine, acknowledged to be the best in the west.
Six Acres 203 Carrall St. 604-488-0110
For history buffs, Six Acres is housed in Vancouvers oldest brick building, and is so named because of the size of the citys original settlement that was born right outside of its window. Gastown. Six Acres prides itself on continuing the tradition of people coming together over food and drink, and happily serves up both until 1am Monday to Saturday. Their menu is comfortable and tasty, from the creamy mac and cheese to the steak and arugula salad, and the beer list truly inspiring. If its late-night in Gastown, all you have to do is look for the Gassy Jack statue, and Six Acres will do the rest.
Alibi Room 157 Alexander St. 604-623-3383
From 10pm on weeknights and 11pm weekends, Alibi Room switches over to its late-night menu, a listing of the simple to the decadent (not to say that something cant be both), all of which co-owner Nigel Springthorpe is immensely proud of. From the house-marinated olives, to the mushroom and organic hazelnut pâté, to the bison cheese steak, youve got choices good ones. And of course, as always with the Alibi, the beers are more than worth the walk. And if youre up for the walk, that means youre aiming to get there; if youre aiming to get there, youve probably been before, and that means you already know they dont sell shooters or push cheap hard liquor, just formidable beer and good, well-thought-out grub.
