Sai Woo
158 East Pender St.
604-568-1117
Open Tuesday to Friday, 11am-late; Saturday & Sunday, 5pm-late.
In the early part of the last century, Sai Woo Chop Suey was a large and popular eatery that became infamous as the gathering place of a group of assassins after they had finished a particularly gruesome job. It operated for several decades before being taken over by New Town Bakery, which still operates next door. New Town eventually didn’t need the space, which was lucky for Salli Pateman, former owner of Section (3) in Yaletown (now closed). Pateman was looking to start a new venture after selling her long-running (an impressive 18 years) business.
From the outside, the tiny, almost invisible entrance on East Pender implies an equally miniscule space inside. Step in, and you’re amazed at the expansive, light-filled room. Extensive renos revealed original Douglas fir that could be re-purposed, a large skylight and classic brick walls. The new space seats 113 on the main floor and another 75 in the lower lounge. Large “button” lights, living trees and that Douglas fir, now lovingly sanded to a healthy, warm gleam, make for a serene, airy environment, one in which tables are decently spaced apart, and rounded booths offer privacy and comfort.
The bar is long and heavy on quality hooch. Bar manager Dave Truscott has created a list that’s heavy on housemade infusions and syrups, and exotic fruit. Menus are backed with translations of Chinese phrases from an old business traveler’s phrasebook: “Have your assistant provide me with four goats,” or “This man has had too much wine and should be carried to his room.” It’s all light-hearted and fun, like the cocktails. There is wine, but I would stick to beer or the mixed drinks, it’s a better match for the food.
The food, created by EC Douglas Chang, formerly of New York’s Eleven Madison Park and Vancouver’s own West, is an eclectic collection of dishes that hint at Chang’s Chinese and Caribbean roots. Some of these are outstanding, like the tamarind-glazed sweetbreads ($16) that are lightly battered and silky on the inside. Tong mein ($12), a hearty bowl of egg noodles with pork belly and lovely slow-cooked tea egg, is a solid lunch, especially when paired with the delicate bao ($6 for two) stuffed with pork belly and pickled vegetable threads. Crunchy and juicy is always a good textural combination, especially when it involves slightly sweet pork and perfectly-brined crispy carrots. The pork belly makes another appearance on the dinner menu, this time braised in fermented red tofu and sided with taro puree.
Coca-Cola chicken wings ($14) were decidedly less impressive, despite the nicely done dark laminated skins. The chicken wasn’t dry, but it also wasn’t flavourful, and tasted surprisingly bland. Chinese sausage rice bowl ($13) was better. The excellent, slightly-fermented sausage is one of the few things that isn’t made in-house, but comes from a neighbourhood supplier. The egg-fried rice was fluffy, with a slight bite, but could have used more flavour.
If you’re hankering for dessert, try the Szechuan peppercorn panna cotta ($6). The name is slightly misleading, as the peppercorn is just a faint whisper that lingers on the tongue after the fresh and poached strawberries, dotted with lemon crumble, are consumed. It’s sweet, tart and refreshing; a perfect summer finish.
There are some kinks to be worked out in the menu, but the space is welcoming, the service is smooth, and the drinks are easy on the palate. Methinks this new incarnation of Sai Woo will be just as popular as its predecessor, albeit (hopefully) without the gangsters.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★
Service: ★★★
Ambiance: ★★★★
Value: ★★
Overall: ★★★
• Hear Anya Levykh every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday.
