Wild, local, sustainable and tasty... I’ve been sold on spot prawns for years. I get impatient for the season to start and am mildly depressed when it ends. So right now, I’m making frequent trips to the wharf for those sweet juicy fresh sea bugs. Then home to cook and crack a bottle, naturally.
With the simplest preparations, I gravitate toward subtle yet tantalizing whites from seaside locations. Muscadet in France, Vinho Verde in Portugal and Txakoli in Spain’s Basque country all fit the bill. (The latter is definitely obscure but you can find the occasional bottle at private wine stores. It’s well worth seeking out.) Go uber-pure and serve sashimi style if you aren't too squeamish or classically steamed if you are.
I’ve noticed a direct correlation between spot prawns season and my Riesling consumption. Maybe it’s because they’re so easily incorporated into Asian cuisine, which has a natural affinity with Riesling. Both dry and sweet examples work; it just depends on what you’re partial to. With the spiciest fare, sweeter low alcohol styles are particularly successful.
And of course, a spot prawn feast is a great excuse to go really local and pair with a homegrown wine. My preference is for our un-oaked, crisp whites. That means drinking more Riesling, but I also use the occasion to sample through a bounty of pretty blends.
At some point, spot prawns will make it into a creamy pasta or risotto with peas. These richer dishes can take on an un-oaked Chardonnay or one of Italy’s great Soaves.
Spot prawn season is usually over before I’ve run out of recipe and wine pairing ideas. Nothing this good lasts long, so don’t miss out. See you at the Spot Prawn Festival on False Creek Fishermen's Wharf, May 17.
2014 L'Ostal Cazes, Rosé • Pays d'Oc IGP, France • $14.99, BC Liquor Stores
The palest of pinks but no lack of character. Watermelon, heady cherry blossom and candied pink grapefruit aromas. Dry and zingy, it’s like having a mouthful of succulent cherry pits and rose petals if you can imagine.
2013 Château de la Gravelle • Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie AOC, France • $15.69, BC Liquor Stores
An understated beauty that’s light on its feet. Flavours of lemon and apple blossom are complemented by thirst quenching acidity and a briny edge. Braving prawn sashimi? This is the way to go.
2012 Vinya Nostra, Xarel-lo • Catalunya, Spain • $15.79, BC Liquor Stores
I’m leading you a bit off the beaten track here. Indigenous to Spain, the Xarel-lo grape is one the unsung heroes in Cava production. Earthy and salty with pear, wax, citrus peel and hints of pineapple. It’ll all make sense when spot prawns meet the grill.
2014 Quails’ Gate Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $16.59, BC Liquor Stores
One local delicacy deserves another. This un-oaked, fruit-driven blend offers plenty of melon, Asian pear and kiwi. It begs for an exotic preparation like spot prawn tacos with a fruity salsa.
2013 8th Generation, Riesling Classic • Okanagan Valley, BC • $21-24, winery direct and private wine stores
Just a kiss of sugar here but I bet you won’t even notice. It’s actually necessary to balance out all that spine-tingling acidity. Guaranteed to refresh your palate as you gorge on spot prawns sautéed with chilli flakes.
• Prices are exclusive of taxes.
