‘Winter’ squash has always seemed like a misnomer to me. Grown during the summer, gourds have been popping up at Farmers’ Markets with increasing frequency for the last few weeks. Butternut, spaghetti, acorn and pumpkin are classic symbols of harvest time and embody the quintessential flavour of fall.
These knobby, hard-skinned beasts soften up when slowly cooked yielding rich, sweet and even caramelized flesh. Roasted, sautéed or steamed squash makes a hearty side dish or can be pimped up into a delicious main.
Essentially, squash offers a tasty canvas to which other ingredients may be added. Maple syrup, curry, butter and cream are go-to seasonings while nuts, apple, mushrooms and bacon create even greater pizzazz.
Sweet or earthy, simple or spicy, the direction you go will help determine the wine.
In general, rich, full-bodied whites can take on the mighty gourd in most of its guises. Chardonnay, Southern French blends and top quality Soave always fit the bill. An oaked Chenin Blanc works well when toasted nuts come into play. Viognier makes a great match with ginger and other exotic spice accents. And Alsace Pinot Gris simply loves smoky bacon. If you are playing up the sweetness don’t be afraid of choosing a wine with a touch of residual sugar.
Back to the name… Yeah, these squash will keep throughout the winter. Which means you can continue enjoying the combos below in the colder months ahead. Note that I have purposely left out suggestions for pumpkin pie. You’ll have to wait until Thanksgiving for pairings with squash’s single greatest creation.
2013 Moillard ‘Hugues le Juste’ Viognier • Pays d’Oc IGP, France • $13.29, BC Liquor Stores
This medium weight Viognier sings with a medley of ginger, tangerine, grapefruit zest and apple. Brilliant with a subtly curried squash and apple soup.
Mira la Mar, Amontillado • Jerez DO, Spain • $19.79, BC Liquor Stores
A dash of amontillado sherry will heighten a squash sauté or stew. But why not drink a glass with your concoction? Dry, tangy and nutty, the Mira la Mar makes for a unique match especially if toasted hazel nuts are also part of the recipe. Remember this is a fortified wine though, so just beware the 17 per cent alcohol.
2013 Bellingham, ‘The Bernard Series’ Vieilles Vignes Chenin Blanc • Coastal Region, South Africa • $22.29,BC Liquor Stores
Full-bodied with exuberant flavours of pineapple, honeydew melon, vanilla and a gorgeous creamy texture. The oak is well integrated and juicy acid provides balance to the ripeness of fruit. Enjoy with a mixed squash gratin.
2012 Maison Louis Jadot, ‘Couvent des Jacobins’ • Bourgogne AOC, France • $26.29,BC Liquor Stores
You can have red with squash too! Offering pure red currants and cherry with a hint of clove, this Pinot Noir is minerally, silky and suitable earthy. For a vegetarian meal try acorn squash stuffed with bulgur and mushrooms.
2013 Pieropan • Soave Classico DOC, Italy • $29-31, Private wine stores
Definitely one of the great names in Soave, the Pieropan is an elegant, lively and nuanced package. Gorgeous almonds, lavender and pear notes. Just the right partner for butternut ravioli with sage.Try Marquis Wine Cellars.
