For years British Columbia has been touting that we make world-class wine. At a certain point though, you need to put your money where your mouth is.
Finally, the BC Wine Institute did just that, inviting renowned British wine expert and journalist Mr. Steven Spurrier to weigh in on our local wares. Among all of his activities and accomplishments throughout his illustrious career, Spurrier was responsible for staging the Judgement of Paris in 1976. This monumental blind tasting pitted California Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon against examples from some of France’s most revered Burgundy and Bordeaux producers. Results shocked everyone when California wines claimed the top spot in both categories.
Almost 40 years later, Spurrier graciously accepted to participate in our own Judgement of BC. On Tuesday, Aug. 25, he joined 20 local wine professionals (including yours truly) for a tasting modeled after his historic 1976 event.
Well-curated by BC-based wine consultant and educator DJ Kearney, the tasting consisted of two blind flights, one featuring Chardonnay, the other Syrah. Each included six wines from BC and six from benchmark regions around the world, almost all retailing between $25-70. Our primary task was to rate them in order of which we thought was the best. The results of all judges were tabulated to determine a collective ordering of the wines. Kearney reminded us that it wasn’t about “win or lose, good or bad, best or worst.” Instead, the purpose was to measure BC wine against its international peers.
So, did we make history with the Judgement of BC? Certainly, the result of the Syrah flight provoked gasps and cheers from the panel. C.C. Jentsch’s 2013 Syrah from Okanagan Valley took the number one spot, triumphing over Northern Rhône examples from Crozes-Hermitage and Cornas as well as Shiraz from Barossa and Hunter Valley. Beyond first place, BC Syrah also earned the fourth (2012 Nichol) and fifth (2013 Le Vieux Pin, Cuvée Classique) positions.
“I think that was a very successful tasting,” Spurrier enthused. “There wasn’t a dud wine in there. Syrah always has a wonderful exuberance and a wonderful expression and I found that the British Columbia Syrah were very expressive.”
As for my own personal preferences, the gorgeous 2013 Vincent Paris, ‘Granit 60’ Cornas earned my top vote followed by Tyrrell’s 2011 ‘Vat 9’ Shiraz from Hunter Valley. But my third, fourth and fifth favourites hailed from BC. Along with the C.C. Jentsch and Le Vieux Pin, I singled out Jackson Triggs’ 2010 Sunrock Shiraz.
BC didn’t fair quite as well in the Chardonnay flight.
“I was a bit disappointed that BC didn’t do better because I really loved the Chardonnays; lovely acidity and not too much oak,” expressed Spurrier. He went on to note the tough competition that they were up against. Collectively, the top four wines in order were the 2013 Soumah Single Vineyard from Australia’s Yarra Valley, the brilliant 2012 Kumeu River Hunting Hill from New Zealand, 2014 Hamilton Russell from South Africa and 2012 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Premier Cru Montmains from France. Though my ordering was slightly different, these were the same four wines that stood out for me.
BC didn’t weigh in until the number six position with the 2013 Blue Mountain Reserve Chardonnay. Despite its lower ranking, I would happily have a glass of this along with the examples from Meyer, Tantalus and Quails’ Gate, which were also included in the competition.
Local wine authority David Scholefield calls it “a reality check. It just means that we all have to work harder than we already are.” There is no defeat in that. Just the potential for even better Chardonnay and BC wines in general.
Undaunted, BC is up for the challenge again. Next year, Pinot Noir and Riesling will be put to the test and Spurrier predicts a strong showing from BC for both of these grapes.
