In a country where food is at the heart of its culture and economy, Alsace is Frances culinary epicentre. It is said there are more Michelin-starred restaurants in this easternmost region than anywhere else in the country.
At the top of the list (at least alphabetically) is Au Crocodile, a fabled restaurant in Strasbourg named after a stuffed crocodile that a local general brought home as a souvenir from Napoleons campaign in Egypt.
Michel Jacob grew up in Strasbourg and at 14 started his training there as a chef. One day, the entire brigade was taken for a meal at Au Crocodile. It was a revelation. Young Michel had never tasted anything as good as that meal and he never forgot it, nor the words of advice from its culinary mastermind, Emile Jung. After travelling through Europe and Britain as a chef, it was in homage to Au Crocodile that 30 years ago next week, Jacob named his new Vancouver restaurant Le Crocodile.
All these years later, its as if everything Jacob valued about classic French cuisine has been preserved. Its here that youll find foie gras, lobster and truffles as unabashed standards, given stellar treatment on their own or as co-stars of another dish. Cream? Cest naturel. And sauces? Their richness comes from stock that is reduced down to its foundations of flavour.
For years, diners have chosen Le Crocodile as their favourite French restaurant. The key, Jacob says, is consistency. If you loved the leg of lamb that you had last night, I guarantee that when you come back in six months youll say, Wow, its as good as I remember.
And while Jacobs cuisine has been nourished with the influences that come from living on the West Coast, you wont find him following any trends or trying to be the most talked about restaurant in Vancouver. You dont want to be in because when youre in, youre out, he says. Far better for him to be a place where hes now serving the grandchildren of some of his original guests.
French cuisine can be its own worst enemy. People might think its chi chi or be intimidated by the weight of traditions. In the old days, waiters were known to tell patrons that Chef knew best and the only way he was going to serve his meat was rare. French cuisine also comes with high expectations, even when were not sure what those expectations are. (For those who expect frog legs to be on the menu, Le Crocodile doesnt disappoint.)
For many years, French cuisine fell out of favour and there were few French restaurants in Vancouver. Today, thanks in part to the influence of Asian diners, who have their own high standards of cuisine, French food is enjoying a revival with restaurants such as Les Faux Bourgeois, Café Regalade and Salade de Fruits packing in the crowds.
Twenty years ago, Montreal and Toronto were way ahead of us, Jacob says of the Canadian food scene. Now, Vancouver is number one.
As Le Crocodile celebrates its 30th anniversary, Jacob is still looking ahead, with no immediate plans for retirement. Its my passion and my life, he says. What else do you want me to do?
