Stepping into Chocolate Arts, I hardly know where to look. To my left, two suited men are talking serious business; next to them, a woman in cat's-eye glasses reads a newspaper while sipping hot chocolate. Past them, the espresso bar beckons with drinking chocolate, caffeine and assorted pastries. On my right is a tasting bar of single-origin chocolates, gift boxes (some designed by First Nations artist Robert Davidson) and chocolate lollipops.
I arrive at the confections counter at the back. Here, there's something for everyone, from single-origin truffles to peanut butter bars. "Number one, it's gotta make sense," says Greg Hook, owner and chocolatier. "There shouldn't be any question as to what the flavour is. you should be immediately able to identify it. Raspberry should taste like raspberry. Rhubarb, you should say 'oh my goodness, that's rhubarb.'"
Recently transplanted to West Third Avenue near Fir, Chocolate Arts originally opened in 1992 on West Fourth. Its 700 square feet housed retail space in the front and a production kitchen in the back. "We actually lived upstairs for the first five years. it was a really short commute," says Hook.
Hook quickly gained traction with his accessible and elegant creations, from thoughtful truffles to First Nations-inspired chocolate masks. By 2000, he opened a separate production kitchen, and in 2012 settled into his new 4,200-square-foot facility in the Armoury District.
"In retrospect, we really should have made this move much earlier," he says. So why didn't he? "During that period of my life I didn't focus as much on business as much as raising our kids. Both of my children are a little bit older now and don't want to hang out as much. I'm working more now than I was before."
That work is definitely paying off. Where the original shop was dark, cozy and almost clandestine, the new Chocolate Arts is bright, airy and begs you to linger. "On Fourth Avenue, we were only doing about one-quarter of the things we were good at. [Here], we can do events, tastings, hands-on classes, demonstration classes."
Hook also has plans to offer pastries in his cafe. "But we won't be a pastry shop that does chocolate. We'll be a chocolate shop that does pastry." Heading into summer, he also plans to offer ice cream and ice cream sandwiches.
Summer is when Hook and his team will preserve seasonal fruit, something he's done since 1995. He loves organic Okanagan Van cherries because they have "more depth" than Bing cherries. Hook and his staff will hand-pit and dehydrate the cherries, then spike the juice with Kirsch. Throughout the year, they rehydrate the cherries in the boozy syrup for a taste of summer - even in the dead of winter. You can taste their efforts in the "blossom," a flower-shaped chocolate concealing the plump cherries. Choose from dark or milk; they're both stellar. If truffles are your thing, the coffee-cardamom and rustica aren't to be missed.
For now, Hook is focused squarely on Easter. "We always do a pop rock bunny," he says, and customers can also look forward to fanciful filled eggs, including caramel cashew, PB & J and s'mores.
On my way out, I pause at the handmade wooden clock in the corner from local artist Harvey Sexsmith. Beside it, Sexsmith writes: "What is craftsmanship? Whether it is furniture or chocolate, our senses and intellect recognize the skill, dedication and vision the artisan has put into their work."
I couldn't have said it better myself. twitter.com/eagranieyuh
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