Any store that requires 90 mannequins to convey six trend themes is going to be an experience. Descending on the escalator from Granville Street to the new TOPSHOP/TOPMAN at the Bay downtown, you enter what feels like the London Oxford Circus store or '214' as everyone buzzing around the shop refers to it.
It truly is a tiny version of the UK flagship, and by tiny, we mean the biggest TOPSHOP/TOPMAN outside of the UK.
The 33,000 square foot Vancouver location is bigger than the other four TOPSHOP's in eastern Canada, and occupies the basement of the Bay. But it feels a world apart when the escalator ride lands you in front of the first of many mannequin cliques, this one displaying "Witching Hour" an edgy lace, leather and skull "going out" collection, the store expanding out into the distance behind.
"What's been brilliant about this store," Mary Homer, the petite managing director of TOPSHOP, tells WE Vancouver during a guided preview. "Is because it [the women's store] is 25,000 square feet. We try and take '214' and create a mini version of that everywhere in the world, and here we've been able to do it so much bigger." But still, TOPSHOP Vancouver is only a third of the size of 214 Oxford Street.
A left turn at the escalators brings you to trend theme #2 Psychedelic Dandy, full of bold prints such as paisley across from the newly launched J.W. Anderson boutique collection featuring irreverent knits and leather. Following your eye leads you to a denim room, then on to Scandi Girl their largest theme, and likely to be the most popular autumn look for Vancouver, with its casual Scandinavian vibe and finally Factory Girl, embodying varying degrees of the swinging '60s.
The store also has a large shoe and accessories section, as well as petite, tall and maternity wear. An intimate personal shopping experience (free with appointment) can help you find exactly what you're looking for.
The clothes change each week and TOPSHOP brings in about 16,000 different items each year.
Homer shares that 75 per cent of TOPSHOP's best-selling items are best sellers around the world, whether in Malaysia, Japan or Kuwait, and then they establish the right mix of formal to casual for that particular market.
"But we'll learn," she adds. "When the customer comes in tomorrow [Oct. 18], they'll dictate if there needs to be balances made in the types of products."
Those best-sellers currently include biker jackets (particularly of the studded variety), anything with sequined collars, lace, peplum (lace, jersey, you name it, they've got it) and then the more casual army look (studding pops up here as well).
Running up to Christmas, they'll bring in a small capsule range with Emma Cook.
Their philosophy of first-to-market fashion and constant newness has garnered loyal fans around the world, and a memo warning of 8am lineups Thursday morning had just been circulated around the excited sales staff (which is expected to reach as many as 240, all together).
Camera crews lock TOPMAN creative director Gordon Richardson, who flew in from the UK on Tuesday, in their sights for an extremely warm length of time. But when WE Vancouver sits down with the amiable, Andy Warhol-esque visionary, his enthusiasm for men's fashion stills exudes from his engaged body language and beaming grin.
Photo: TOPSHOP managing director Mary Homer with TOPMAN creative director Gordon Richardson
He compliments my knit sweater, asking if it is local and gasping in mock dismay when I admit it is from a competing mid-range chain. Blush.
"It's a huge store, isn't it? It's monumental. It's exciting," he follows up.
The TOPMAN men's department is a mere 9,000 square feet, but there is a deceptively large spread of shoes, hats, sweaters, suits.
When questioned on why TOPMAN ventured into the Vancouver menswear market, not known for its adventurous fashion, he countered that perhaps it's "never been the choice."
He has no illusions that they will be the only choice, and admits to misfires in his career with TOPMAN debuting skinny jeans after being inspired by Dior Homme creative director Hedi Slimaneabout two years before the market was ready for them("It was a disaster!"). And shaking his head in bewilderment at how slow cardigans were to take off: "I was wearing cardigans" he exclaims, snapping his fingers and shuffling like a hipster. "Everyone was going to wear cardigans" he trails off with a laugh. There was a similar two year lag in their popularity but now they are the first thing you see as you transition from the TOPSHOP department into TOPMAN.
Richardson explored Gastown on Tuesday, falling in love with Roden Gray, but recalling his tours of Vancouver's more commercial stores leads him to lean forward conspiratorially and state," We have brought a lot of, I suppose, diverse fashion into this market. But it's all very real. It's not extreme fashion, necessarily. You can get five, six guys coming in at the weekend, and they'll can all go out looking different. But they'll all look fashionable for the moment."
The versatility of the men's collection means the confident and the 'Vancouvident' can leave looking like themselves (just a bit more British). The current collection bears a striking resemblance to a Wes Anderson film and Richardson sums it up with one word: Heritage. It's a merging of traditional clothes (something your dad might have worn) with a looser, skater style.
But back to the sheer size of the store. With four entrances, Joan Cummings, head of visual merchandising (also in town from the UK for the opening), has her hands full trying to portray the vast TOPSHOP collection without knowing where the customer will be coming in from. She's the reason a mannequin is silver or flesh toned, the hangers are black, clear or wooden. And every mannequin is a masterpiece. Customers have been known to buy a look head to toe.
And The Bay's newest tenant can fit hundreds of shoppers amidst the sprawling space with elbow room to spare.
The Bay has been the Canadian partner for TOPSHOP since the beginning. "We look for somebody who has, obviously, real estate, has good business, understands retail, understands us because it is a joint partnership," says Homer. "With the Bay we found that perfect fit."
TOPSHOP/TOPMAN opens Oct. 18 with a ribbon cutting ceremony, led by Bonnie Brooks, at 9:30am and then on to in-store events, food trucks and DJs. The shopping frenzy will continue until 9pm.
