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THE INSEAM VOL. 45: EXHIBIT B

Vancouver is home to a thriving fashion industry made up of individuals committed to its growth and success. Get to know these personalities in The Inseam and discover what makes the Vancouver Fashion scene so awesome.

Vancouver is home to a thriving fashion industry made up of individuals committed to its growth and success. Get to know these personalities in The Inseam and discover what makes the Vancouver Fashion scene so awesome.

Photo: courtesy Nordica Photography

Part nerd, part Bill Nye the Science Guy, Exhibit B bow ties are a hip and modern take on the nostalgic neckwear of yesteryear. Formalwear designer Alison Hartford, in collaboration with her partners Krista and Kara Eide, have created a line of men’s bow ties in vintage and new fabrics. I caught up with Alison to discuss the concept behind Exhibit B and what we can look forward to in the upcoming holiday collections.

Valerie Tiu: You have a background designing formal wear, having created couture and wedding gowns under your own label and for Manuel Mendoza. What made you decide to venture out and create mens' bow-ties?

Alison Hartford: The idea was sparked during a long Sunday walk with my friends (and now design partners) Krista Eide and Kara Eide. We realized that there were very few bow ties on the market, and none that were locally made and available at boutiques where the guys we know shop.  I made a few up for friends and they were a huge hit and it just snowballed from there.

VT: Why the name "Exhibit B"? Can you talk about the concept behind your label?

AH: When we were doing some research on bow ties, we learned that they were often worn by scientists in labs, so that they didn't have dangerous incidents with Bunsen burners, and by pediatricians wanting to avoid grabby hands.  We liked the idea of old laboratories and med schools, so we chose the glass jars for packaging and the labels that are reminiscent of specimen jars, and Exhibit B might refer to Bowties, or an alternative to the obvious neckwear choices.

VT: Can you describe your design process?

AH: We are inspired by the fabrics that we use each season. The basic design of the bow tie has been pretty constant throughout its history, so we want to make our ties appeal to our customers by using unique and interesting fabrics. The three of us collaborate on colour schemes and prints for each collection.

VT: What kind of fabrics do you work with?

AH: We design two lines: the first is made of reworked vintage silk neckties.  We buy old ties with fantastic silk prints, open them up, re-cut and sew them as bow ties. They are all one-of-a-kind and feature fabrics and prints that you just can't find new anymore. The second line features new fabrics that we source each season. We focus on natural fabrics: silk, cotton and wool.

VT: Who wears Exhibit B bow-ties?

AH: Bow ties are pretty timeless - lots of our customers are young guys that want to make a little bit of a statement and a bow tie can add just a bit of personality while still keeping an outfit work-appropriate.  There is also something kind of subversive about wearing an accessory that might seem old fashioned and formal in an irreverent, fun way.  Lots of guys that don't like traditional neckties prefer a bow tie - it doesn't get in the way and you almost forget it's there until someone compliments you on it!  We've made bow ties for wedding parties, co-workers, dads, granddads....

VT: How does living in Vancouver influence your perspective on fashion?

AH: Vancouver sometimes gets press about its lack of fashion, but we don't agree with that.  People here just don't take fashion too seriously; it's got to be fun, functional and unique. They are not too concerned about following trends that are going on in the fashion capitals of the world and that's okay.  There is great support for local lines and retailers and a level of awareness about sustainability that prompted us to opt for reusable packaging and a line of reworked vintage ties.

VT: Is it challenging to transition from designing formal wear to menswear?

AH: No. The company I work for, Manuel Mendoza, does bespoke men's tailoring, so I wasn't unfamilliar with menswear, and I'm used to working with fine fabrics and doing a lot of finicky hand-sewing, so the transition was pretty seamless, no pun intended!

VT: What can we expect from Exhibit B in the upcoming season?

AH: Our fall/holiday line is out now, and we're focusing on deep colours, luxurious silks, lots of paisley and stripes for a more formal evening look. For daytime, great cotton prints in navy and maroon and finely textured wools.

VT: What makes Vancouver so awesome?

AH: The creative people, the natural beauty, and all the good energy. It's the best place in the world to live and create!

Exhibit B bow ties are currently available in Vancouver at Much & LittleJewelietteTwo of a Few, and Hills of Kerrisdale, and in Vancouver and Edmonton at Gravity Pope Tailored Goods.