“Fine dining is dead!” cried the multitudes a few short years ago. In short, no more starched white tablecloths, black-vested servers and pouffe rests for your purses. Instead, the rise of comfort food, greasy spoon fare, diner grub – call it what you will – became the taste du jour. “Elevated” comfort food – truffled mac ‘n’ cheese, foie gras poutine – was as fancy as it got for a while.
It seems, however, that, as popular as leatherette booths and beer-brined fish and chips may be, Vancouverites still have a hankering for something more exquisite, possibly lavish.
Before you start thinking of la Belle Epoque and bustles, turn to the modern and well-fitted-up room that houses Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar at the Sutton Place Hotel. No white tablecloths, but the occasional tableside service, a veteran oyster shucker (no other than “Oyster” Bob Skinner), and an acclaimed bartender (Justin Taylor) make for a pretty swank room.
Well, that, and the food. Thanks to Executive Chef Alex Chen and Chef de Cuisine Roger Ma, the elegant stylings of the room extend to the plates. Don’t think for a second, though, that comfort is forgotten. This is the home of my favourite chicken wings in the city. Yes, chicken wings. Despite the high-end display, there’s a lot of play on the menu, and hoary chestnuts like hamachi crudo and octopus are re-imagined with smoked mayo or marcona almonds. Paired with the many approachable wines picked out by wine director Lisa Haley, this is a room in which the sartorially splendid can let their hair down for an elegant – and fun – night out.
• 845 Burrard St. | 604-642-2900 | BoulevardVancouver.ca
