Once again, Vancouverites have weighed in with their choices for which restaurants, bars, pubs, and cafés make this city one of the tastiest places on Earth. And you’ve done an amazing job, so thank you for that.
But what about the so-called experts? Who did they vote for?
Since the public has had their say, we thought we’d pick the brains of Westender’s resident gastronomic authorities, and ask them who they picked with their votes.
We gathered wine expert and consultant Michaela Morris, veteran food and drink writer Michael White, restaurant reviewer and columnist Anya Levykh and myself, Robert Mangelsdorf, certified Level 1 Cicerone and BJCP Apprentice (and editor of The Growler, the best craft beer magazine anywhere).
So here’s our take on who we think should have won. Bear in mind, these are our own personal opinions, based on no specific criteria whatsoever. Take with a very large grain of salt. –Robert Mangelsdorf, editor
Best BC Winery: Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars
BlueMountainWinery.com
I am basing my choice of best BC winery on consistency from year to year as well as across the range. The Mavety family has been growing grapes for more than 40 years and making wine under the Blue Mountain label for 25 of those. The overall quality is always very high and prices have remained extremely reasonable. Viticulture and winemaking are now in the hands of Matt Mavety who carries on crafting unpretentious wines and allows the purity of fruit shine.
In terms of the range, Blue Mountain’s Pinot Blanc ($17.90) is one of the best BC values and their Gamay ($22.90) is a go-to for a light, bright local red. It’s the traditional method sparkling wine program that really seals the deal though. You can’t beat the non-vintage Gold Label Brut for $23.90. Even more impressive, the Brut Rosé will stand up to any sparkling rosé from around the world and likely trump it (current release 2012: $32.90). The absolute cream of the crop is gorgeously elegant Blanc de Blancs. Made from 100 per cent Chardonnay and aged for a lengthy five and a half years on the lees, the recently released 2009 vintage is complex, savoury and an absolute pleasure to drink for only $39.90.
Best Sommelier: Lisa Haley, L’Abattoir
217 Carrall
Labattoir.ca
A year ago, Lisa Haley left Boulevard and a list of 600 wines, to assume the role of wine director at L’Abattoir. Working with a much more compact selection (maximum 100 labels), Haley states, “Every wine on the list has to serve a purpose.”
I would happily order any bottle from her list. It’s well-balanced in terms of price and styles. While she focuses on France, mirroring the roots of the cuisine, Haley also offers unique picks from Italy, Austria, California, BC and beyond.
But Haley has set a challenge for herself, favouring smaller producers that not all diners will be familiar with. She’s there to help though. Want a Pinot Noir? No problem! It might not be from that California producer you know but Haley may introduce you to the excellent Hamilton Russell from South Africa. Her strategy is to listen to her customers then deliver a wine they’ll enjoy at a price they’re comfortable with.
She also places much importance on staff training doing regular tastings with her team. She has an eye for good people and was able to lure up-and-coming talent Kristi Linneboe from Maenam. As assistant sommelier, Linneboe says Haley listens to her ideas and encourages her input while constantly challenging her.
“Lisa is the most inspirational woman I have ever worked with and so supportive in every way,” she says.
Best Italian restaurant: La Quercia
3689 West 4th
LaQuercia.ca
When it comes to Italian restaurants, La Quercia nails it for atmosphere, food and wine list. The room is small, intimate and ideal for a special date while the service is unfussy and unobtrusive yet proper.
I’d argue it’s the most authentic Italian cuisine you can find in Vancouver. Owner and chef Adam Pegg has a magic touch with pasta and risotto, cooking them truly al dente – meaning firm, rather soft and mushy. He uses just a few simple ingredients but manages to combine them in such a way that you want for no more. Each dish is flavourful, balanced and genuine.
The small but well-curated wine list is exclusively Italian (minus the Dom Pérignon and Krug Champagne for which they are forgiven). Requisite classics like Amarone, Barolo and Brunello are well-represented. These are rounded out with excellent quality examples of familiar favourites Prosecco (Nino Franco) and Pinot Grigio (Elena Walch). And for those who like to venture off the beaten track, you can find gems such as Sergio Mottura’s Grechetto from the region of Lazio or Elizabetta Foradori’s Teroldego from Alto Adige.
Besides best Italian restaurant, I’d also vote for La Quercia as best restaurant overall AND most romantic.
