The fashion business is unlike other and bringing a magazine to life takes hard work and tenacity. Editors are often at the epicenter of bringing it all together and the pressure can be crippling at times. I recently picked up Kirstie Clements’ (ex editor of Vogue Australia) new book “The Vogue Factor”. The book created huge buzz based on Clements’ candid account of what happens in the most prestigious fashion publication house in the world—Vogue.
[Click here for our gallery: The most stylish editors of 2013]
In the book, Clements takes us on her two decade long journey with a modest start as a receptionist at Vogue to working with Karl Lagerfeld as Editor of Vogue Australia. Just as most people faces challenges in their career, so has Clements as she described her exit from American Vogue after being fired. Perhaps her most ghastly reveal was a witness account of models eating cotton balls to combat hunger and stay thin.
Clements distinguishes herself in always putting the reader first. She describes the intricate balance between advertisers and responsible journalism when being in the role of an editor.
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The tides are certainly turning with the uprising of fashion bloggers and street style photographers. It’s no surprise that designers want to restore what was theirs in the first place. The question becomes how relevant are bloggers when it comes to fashion?
The issue has now centered on Fashion Week and the lack of “editing” when it comes to who gets in. After all, front row seats that use to be predominantly reserved for editors and fashion directors are now being cut to accommodate bloggers that may be more concerned about taking a photo of themselves in the front row than providing their reader with a relevant conversation about fashion. Last month, New York Magazine reported that IMG who manages Fashion Week would be doing a huge edit to their accreditation list to ensure that the sanctity of Fashion Week is preserved.
“But since the emergence of street style photographer[s] and blogger[s], the amount of ‘poseurs’ that exist outside and inside the shows has become a whole new business. Decades of experience at revered mastheads and ability to articulate intelligently may prove to be of very little value in the near future. “ – Kirstie Clements (Past Vogue editor and author)
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Many people have asked me about my thoughts on the new implementation and while I think fashion should be inclusive, responsible journalism should always take president. Clements highlights key issues with bloggers surrounding a lack of pronounced voice on fashion critique and bloggers are far too complimentary in order to ensure a guarantee for a seat at the next show. Remember Kennedy Fraser who gave us a real account of fashion writing and a robust critique of collections in 1970?
Fashion Week is a privilege that pays homage to the designers that show their collection (good or bad). While the new implementation may have me possibly cut from the list next Fashion Week, I’ve always been thankful with each returning season that I’ve had the opportunity to learn some important lessons. At the end of the day, I want to know that being at Fashion Week means something and that everyone is there for the same cause—to inform the reader.
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“It’s getting harder to find honest, relevant criticism because new fashion commentators are relentlessly positive in their reviews. I have increasingly thought that there are too many very smart people in the world writing over blown nonsense about fashion.” –Kirstie Clements (Past Vogue editor and author)
I guess the real question the fashion industry has to ask is: where have all the fashion critics gone?
For our gallery of most stylish editors of 2013, click here.
Amy Yew is a contributing columnist at Vancouver Courier and a fashion and style writer. She is also a Lucky Magazine community contributor. Tell us what you think and submit any questions you have to [email protected]. You can also tweet your thoughts @AmyYew.
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