Not so long ago, it simply wasn't cool to "drink pink." But in the last few years, rosé has returned to the fore, with a rise in popularity that's been swift, to say the least.
In the '80s and '90s (not unlike Riesling, which everyone still thought was sweet), good rosé languished in the shadow cast by sugary commercial blush wines masquerading as rosé. To be fair, even smaller wineries coveted some of that big brand success achieved by the likes of white Zinfandel. That fortuitous mistake turned California's Sutter Home into a household world-still considered by a few as a must on any wine list to snare travelling Americans.
However, these days, particularly in B.C., winemakers and consumers have begun to take rosé more seriously and are understanding its flexibility as an enjoyable food wine-something the French and Spanish figured out a few generations back.
In a relatively short time, B.C. has climbed onto the rosé bandwagon, with a wide range of wines that have blossomed with the 2010 vintage. Usually lower in alcohol, they make for perfect summer sipping; or drinking with the likes of barbecued sockeye, grilled chicken salad, cold cuts or cheese plates.
It's fair to say B.C. rosé comes in just about every style, even if the number of bone dry contenders is still lacking. Rising to the top, interestingly, are a number of well made syrah, pinot noir and pinot meunier rosés more than worth the search.
. Calliope Syrah Rosé 2010 This wine is among the first releases of Burrowing Owl's second label, a name they purchased from original brand owners Ross and Cherie Mirko. Forward, red berry notes with juicy, fruity overtones on a lush, slightly offdry palate. VQA Stores $13.99. Great value.
. 8th Generation Rosé 2010 (Pinot Meunier)
A burst of wild strawberry up front with more citrus flavours mid palate towards a dry finish. $19-$22, private wine stores.
. Quails Gate Rosé 2010 (Gamay Noir with 10 per cent Pinot Noir)
Nicely fruited but drier overall, with some earthy notes and mouthwatering acidity in a little leaner, more food-friendly style. How come Wills and Kate (who tasted a whack of Quails Gate wines at Dechinta Bush University in Yellowknife) missed out on this one? The deal of the pack, at VQA Stores and BCLS, $14.99.
. The View Distraction Rosé 2010 (Pinotage)
We first tasted these wines last year and were intrigued to see how the pinotage showed then. The 2010 is even better: cherry, strawberry and a touch of grapefruit with a burst of juicy acidity. It's a keeper and a deal. VQA $14.50.
. Stag's Hollow Syrah Rosé 2010
It has bursts of strawberry, citrus and a hint of orange (from small amounts of Muscat and Viognier). Refreshingly drier than many, but fullfruited through a long finish. $18.99 at VQA stores.
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There's no time like summer for wine touring. Here are two new books you'll want to pack along:
. Wineries of British Columbia (Touchwood, $30). A comprehensive and well-organized guide from the contributors of Eat Magazine, the book is beautifully illustrated, with plenty of local detail that includes craft breweries, fruit wineries, mead and cider, plus recipes, maps by region and restaurant recommendations.
. John Schreiner's BC Coastal Wine Tour Guide, (Whitecap, $20) reveals that B.C.'s coastal regions (including the Fraser valley) account for one third of all licensed wineries in the province. Detailed itineraries and flagship wine picks are intertwined with Schreiner's seasoned blend of raconteur and wine authority. If there's a story that can be told, it's here.
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