The Hired Belly thinks its time we named the third week in September B.C. Wine Week. Seriously. After all, if youre not picking it up in the Okanagan or Similkameen, chances are youre tasting it in Vancouver or somewhere else.
Several B.C. events last week produced no shortage of validation for local drops, among them a gathering of Similkameen Valley producers , which underscored Similkameens emergence as the provinces most dynamic new region. Although, its not really new at allits just coming out of its neighbours shadow.
Almost all Similkameen grapes used to wind up under Okanagan Valley labels (and many still do). But a growing number of good, small wineries is helping to change all that, allowing the valleys distinctive character to show through.
Riesling, Chardonnay (often unoaked), Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir are coming to the fore as the valleys varietals that do consistently wellalthough we were also wowed by the inaugural Syrah 2009 from Orofino, with its varietally true, meaty, gamey aromas, juicy black fruit and peppery palate ($28.90).
Here are a few notables to give you a sense as to what the Similkameens all about. Track them down at VQA or better private stores.
Orofino Riesling 2010. Dry Riesling wrapped in zingy minerality that shouts Similkameen. $19.90.
Clos de Soleil Capella White 2009. Classically styled 95 per cent Sauv Blanc-Semillon with elegant, slightly citrus palate. $26 to $27.
Seven Stones 2009 Cabernet Franc. Juicy raspberry and mocha-toned with a long and spicy close ($28).
Cerelia unoaked Chardonnay 2009. Mineral-toned with apple and citrus notes on a well- balanced palate ($18.90).
Robin Ridge Gamay Noir 2009. Bright cherry notes, raspberry and spice, with a hint of slate to end ($21.90).
Eau Vivre Cabernet Franc 2009. Spice and herbal notes and aromas with a peppery palate, well-balanced fruit and acidity ($22).
If youre headed for the Okanagan Wine Festival, which runs until Oct. 9 (thewinefestivals.com), consider a detour to check out whats happening around Cawston and Keremeos. Youll be pleasantly surprised. Not only that, the scenery down south is even more spectacular than usual at this time of year. Plan your visits at similkameenwine.com.
Winner of this years Chef Meets Grape B.C. Food and Wine Small Plates Challenge was ODouls executive chef Chris Whittaker. He increasingly shows up in the winners column, and its easy to see why. The idea of the contest is to feature local and seasonal ingredients, and to come up with the best wine match. Whittakers Pinot Noir-cured Pacific Provider wild pink salmon, warm chanterelle and bacon salad was a slam dunk.
Two noteworthy facts: the once shunned pinknot sockeye or cohosalmon was frozen at sea (though you wouldnt have known it); and the well-paired, silky tannin, cherry-toned Garry Oaks Pinot Noir 2009 (VQA stores, $21.95) comes from Salt Spring Island. Both confirm ODouls emergence as one of the citys more regionally focused rooms. All sustainable and Ocean Wise, too. Head there for lunch, brunch or dinner before late-night jazz from some of the towns top artists. More info at odoulsrestaurant.com.
Walk to the end of the new Convention Centre promenade and youll discover Mahony and Sons (1055 Canada Place, 604-647-7513), a deceptively sprawling homage to the likes of Guinness, Smithwicks and more on tap, plus a vaguely Irish but wide ranging menu brought by mini-kilted maids. Though wed rather see some notable local brews, downtowns newest pub is an impressive watering hole, with a patio overlooking Coal Harbour to go along.
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