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Wine fest forecast: Chile with chance of affordability

Given the shaky state of the world economy, the choice of Chile as theme region for next year's Playhouse wine festival (Feb. 27 to March 4 at the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre) couldn't have come at a better time.

Given the shaky state of the world economy, the choice of Chile as theme region for next year's Playhouse wine festival (Feb. 27 to March 4 at the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre) couldn't have come at a better time. Few other wine producing countries enjoy Chile's impressive track record for making value-driven wines at every price level.

Chile's success over the years, ironically, has been a two-edged sword. The country established its original claim to fame almost solely on budget wines: a worthy rep that's hard to shake. But, as next year's wine fest will prove, Chile has expanded its repertoire considerably. These days you can find a ton of well-made varieties from contrasting regions, many sustainably farmed.

The value-based wines are still there, and much improved, as in the case of Vina Santa Caroliña Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010-an apple and citrus-toned, clean finishing affordable drop that delivers classic varietal character for $12.99 at B.C. Liquor Stores. It's now sourced from up-and-coming maritime-influenced Leyda. Think zippy party sipping or simple shellfish matches.

By contrast, you can almost sink your teeth into the textured and leesy Undurraga TH (as in Terroir Hunter) Sauvignon Blanc 2008. Look for lifted tropical aromas, some lemon lime notes and layered complexity, both from stainless steel barrel fermentation, which is what contributes to its heft. Hunt it down at private wine stores for around $25.

Over the years, we've been lucky to taste older vintages of Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Cab Sauv. that have displayed amazing staying power. You could tuck away the affordable, spicy, black-fruited and oaked 2010 for easily a decade or more. Or drink it now with something meaty and grilled. BCLS $21.99.

For most people, $20 is still the sweet spot, the holy grail of wine pricing for which everyone aims. If you can over deliver for under 20-as does Santa Rita's Medalla Real Cab Sauv. 2008 with lively, expressive red and black fruit, harmonized tannins, fruit and acidity, BCLS $19.99-then you've got it made. And so does Chile.

Info at playhousewinefest. com or call 604-873-3311.

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While it won't be ready in time for the 2012 Polar Bear Swim, the new Cactus Club at English Bay is near completion and expected to open later in January. As workers are busy putting the finishing touches on the LEED-certified facility (and its yet-to-be-named take-out satellite), head chef Rob Feenie is finalizing a "quintessentially" Vancouver menu. We recently tasted a refreshing cilantro, mint and chili-tweaked scallop and salmon ceviche; rich and smooth butternut squash soup with Qualicum Bay scallop; what will likely become a hallmark mini albacore tuna sandwich; and a West Coast seafood salad of spot prawns and tuna tataki with mango and artisan greens. Expect unique wines to match and good craft brews to go along-all in time for Valentine's for sure. [email protected]