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Year in Review: Dining

Dynamic year saw pizza wars, street food flourish, Hawksworth soar

In such a topsy turvy economy, it's no surprise the Hired Belly's tattered notebook (or wine splotched iPhone) over the past 12 months yields no particular theme but a parade of comings and goings-proof that Vancouver's dining scene is dynamic, to say the least.

- Our nod for best upscale newcomer must go to Hawksworth, which has lived up to expectations by delivering the most stylish entry to come along in years-the jewel in the crown of the Rosewood Hotel Georgia's restoration. The cream and pearl rooms (and bar) have serious buzz and Hawksworth's honed plates of locally sourced ingredients-such as Yellowfin tuna carpaccio with avocado, yuzu and cilantro-matched with head sommelier Terry Threlfall's wine picks, make for one superb package (801 West Georgia St., ph. 604-673-7000).

- Not to be overlooked, bustling tri-decker Black and Blue Steakhouse, another surefire winner from the Glowbal Group; and Dale McKay's Ensemble, an unapologetic, more casual, detail- driven (and by no means inexpensive) homage to vanished Lumiere.

- Does the arrival of Granville Island's Edible Canada at the Market (1596 Johnston St., ph. 604-682-6681) mean we can finally put an end to all those jokes about defining Canadian cuisine? We like to think so. Eric Pateman's multi-purpose maple leaf salute is tasty fun, whether you're looking for a light lunch matched with hard-to-find B.C. and increasingly other Canadian wines, locally produced edible gifts, or a great spot to throw a party (behind the glass garage doors). If there were any opening bumps, our latest visit found them ironed out, especially with plates such as Qualicum Bay scallops, perked up with with peppy chorizo and smoky tomato vinaigrette, paired with citrus-toned and mineral-y, complex Haywire Switchback Pinot Gris 2010.

- More proof that "casual" and "affordable" are the day's key ingredients came with the landing of Yaletown's The Flying Pig in the former Amarcord space (1168 Hamilton St., ph. 604-568-1344). If you can deliver good taste as well as great value, chances are you'll be packed from day one. Go for the chili-rubbed skirt steak (grab a glass of CedarCreek Merlot while you're at it), don't miss the smoky ham-hocked three pea soup and try to resist the homemade waffle cone. Hint: Go early or late.

- This was also the year that pizza wars-fueled by Vancouverites' long overdue discovery of all things authentically Neapolitan-broke out with a vengeance. While Nicli Antica (62 East Cordova, ph. 604-669-6985) has the whole stylish package, not to mention superb offerings such as funghi with parmigiano, mozzarella and tomato, there's no shortage of other contenders. For all round good eats in a comfortable, laid back setting, well situated for pre-movie sustenance, Novo Pizzeria and Wine Bar (2118 Burrard St., ph. 604-604-736-2220) gets a well deserved nod, as does neighbourhood, kid-friendly East Sider Campagnolo Roma (2297 East Hastings St., ph. 604-569-0456) for pizza and more.

- We'd be remiss not to mention the blossoming street food scene, driven by stars such as Re-Up BBQ, La Brasserie Street and Fresh, Local Wild, as well as the morphing that took place with "Goodbye Nu, Hello Greek Street" and other casual souvlaki joints courtesy of Kambolis Group. If you haven't already, get the app: streetfoodapp.com.

- Out of town, it was a year when Okanagan winery dining blossomed, most notably with the unveiling of Miradoro at Oliver's Tinhorn Creek (ph. 250-498-3742) a project undertaken by Tinhorn in partnership with Le Gavroche owner Manuel Ferreira. The glass wrapped building, with its cantilevered deck and sweeping valley views is a stunner. What's more, the arrival of Jeff Van Geest and his flexible Mediterranean menu based on local ingredients has raised the bar in the South Okanagan-and provided the perfect showcase for Tinhorn's well made wines.

It was a turbulent but tasty year. And, quite likely, 2012 will be no different.

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