It wasn't quite the same as trying to get Taylor Swift Eras Tour tickets, but I was playing a serious webpage refresh game trying to land a reservation (that wasn't past my bedtime) for Chez Celine.
A sibling to Vancouver's one Michelin-star St Lawrence, Chez Celine moved swiftly into the space at 4298 Fraser St vacated by Say Mercy! last fall, with whispers of its impending arrival swirling by December.
Charming Quebecois-rooted bistro an unpretentious 'French affair'
Chez Celine is positioned as "a French affair" with "a kitchen of honest cuisine. Friends, family — everyone in between."
That said, the concept borrows a bit from the Quebecois column (bonjour, poutine!) as it pays hommage to the province's casse-croûte culture. A "casse-croûte" is essentially a snack or light meal; it's a term used to describe casual Quebec eateries.
Indeed, there is something elegantly laid-back about Chez Celine. With early summer evening sunlight dappling the tiled floors and homey but minimal dining room, the team breezed around the room seating the first dinner guests and pouring opening glasses of a crisp, refreshing white from France's Savoie region (near the Swiss and Italian borders). Friendly dog portraits and decor graced the room and the mood is bright and cheery.
The menu is short, but still has great range. The meal opens with a snack from the kitchen, which was a bite-sized panisse (chickpea fritter).
What's on the menu at Chez Celine?
I opted to do a "one from each category" routine, starting with the special bread of the day, a thick, golden round with a concave top filled with seasonal stinging nettle (greens) and creamy ricotta.
The radish and turnip salad was an absolute stealth sleeper hit, thanks to the tonnato sauce and olive oil. I almost didn’t choose this dish but I’m so glad I did. The roasted veggies were served at room temp and could easily be dragged through the sauce to pick up maximum flavour. (Pro-tip, pair a forkful of the salad with a piece of the bread.)
Chez Celine has a couple of mains ideal for sharing, but I was dining solo, so I had to forego the whole pork chops or the beautiful t-bone steaks I watched with envy as they landed on nearby tables. Instead, I opted for the gnocchi with peas and truffle butter, which was hearty and decadent, and featured an almost shocking level of big, bright pea flavour.
Poutine and maple syrup must-haves at Chez Celine
And though I was already in overdrive in the cheese and carbs department, I was not going to leave Chez Celine without at least a couple of truly Quebecois bites, so I had to get their poutine. The crispy skin-on frites had a rich gravy and when you dig down into the paper cup in which they're served, you will pull out tangled forkfuls featuring picture-perfect cheese pulls thanks to the gooey, melty real-deal cheese curds.
Dessert remained in "La Belle Province," with their featured treat: Soft serve topped with smashed sugar pie pieces (a St Lawrence star menu item I've enjoyed many times before) and drizzled with warm maple syrup at the table (and topped with a little Quebec flag).
And, yes...I needed a "doggy" bag.
Given Chez Celine's pedigree as an offshoot of St Lawrence, this charming spot is not surprisingly already causing a stir and is squarely on my radar as being among Vancouver's likely Class of 2025 for the city's best new restaurants.
It is also adding to an already jam-packed Fraser corridor where you will find several of Vancouver's top restaurants. Neighbours include Zab Bite, Bar Bravo, Nammos Estiatorio, Ama, and Masayoshi.
Chez Celine is open Sundays and Tuesday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 5 to 11 p.m. Brunch launches on June 28. Reservations are available through Tock.
Video: Trying Chez Celine, the new restaurant from Vancouver's St Lawrence
@forkingawesomevia Chez Celine is the newest Vancouver restaurant from the team at the one Michelin-star St Lawrence. ⭐️ It’s an unpretentious bistro that blends Quebecois, European, and West Coast sensibilities with a fun wine program and a lot of character - their mascot is an adorable dog! I dined at Chez Celine and tried a few items from the menu, starting with a complimentary snack from the kitchen called a panisse-a little chickpea fritter. Next: the feature bread with stinging nettle and ricotta and a nice drizzle of fresh lemon. The radish and turnip salad was an absolute stealth sleeper hit, thanks to the tonnato sauce and olive oil. I almost didn’t choose this dish but I’m so glad I did. For my main, I had the gnocchi with peas and truffle. 🫛This was rich, hearty, and quite tasty. The gnocchi were perfectly tender and the peas so bright with a gorgeous vibrant pea flavour. I couldn’t resist getting the poutine as a side, even though I was definitely already in carb and cheese overdrive. The gravy was fragrant and once I dug down into the cute cup I was able to get cheese pull after cheese pull of melty real cheese curds. This and a glass of wine alone would be heaven. 🍷🍟🧀 For dessert: Their soft serve special with a smashed Quebecois sugar pie drizzled in warm maple syrup. Super decadent but also so much fun. 🍁 It’s been a tough reso to nab so far and I can totally see why (though I’m not surprised). This will likely end up being one of the best new Vancouver restaurants of 2025. 🔮 #forkingawesome #vancouverbc ♬ Neo Soul, Cafe, Adult-like fashionable songs(1372096) - Jasper Lab
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