If you haven't been to Toronto in the last 10 years, have you even been?
This is what I was contemplating as I looked out the window of my 20th floor room at Hotel X with its sweeping views of Lake Ontario and the remnants of Ontario Place along Lakeshore Boulevard below.
The gorgeous hotel on the Canadian National Exhibition grounds (aka the CNE or "The Ex") itself isn't even a decade old; opened in 2018, it arrived in Toronto more recently than this traveller last had, which was in 2007.
Even casual chats with Uber drivers or tour guides will affirm: Toronto has changed dramatically in the last few years.
And while my last trip was nearly two decades prior, Toronto in 2025 is even more unrecognizable to me, given that I spent nearly the entire 1980s there, seeing it through a kid lens. But that's not a bad thing: There is so much to enjoy in Toronto for all kinds of travellers.
Toronto has always been Canada's cosmopolitan epicentre, and then some. Many classic Toronto experiences endure (and are more than worth experiencing) but the more-ness just amplifies the Ontario capital as being a great destination for Vancouverites who enjoy urban travel, with a hefty dose of stunning greenery, and a ton to see and do.
When to visit Toronto
Vancouverites may wish to head east to Toronto in spring or fall to find comfortable temperatures and plenty of great seasonal activities. By late April the city will see more steadily warm weather and plenty of spring blooms, including cherry blossoms as the season deepens, and the Blue Jays get to playing. Summers can be sweltering in the city, but its prime time for fairs and fests and peak excursions to places like the Toronto Islands. Fall means stunning foliage, cooler temps, and less crowds than in summer. Winter is a bold choice for those who don't mind snow and cold; Toronto has outdoor ice skating, festive holiday markets, and plenty of pro sports to see like the Raptors (NBA) and Maple Leafs (NHL).
Getting there: YVR to YYZ
Vancouver-Toronto was the top North American flight route in 2024, which means travellers have plentiful options for non-stop round-trip trips between Vancouver International Airport (YVR) and Toronto Pearson International Airport (YYZ).
Air Canada, WestJet, Porter, and Flair all service the YVR-YYZ route, so if you plan on heading to Toronto by air, it's going to come down to schedule and budget. You may want to take a look at flights out of Abbotsford (YXX) as a cost-saving alternative, if the Fraser Valley airport is more convenient. Toronto's secondary airport, Billy Bishop (YTZ) is located on the downtown waterfront, but is a more expensive option.
Once you land at YYZ, getting into the city will take you another 30 minutes or so, depending on traffic. You can go by taxi/ride hailing service (Uber, Lyft), private limo, or public transit. For public transit, the airport has the UP Express train, which connects Pearson airport with Union Station (and a couple more stops in the city), and it costs just under $13 per ride (kids 12 and under ride free). Take note, UP is a separate system from Toronto's TTC and each requires its own fare.
Getting around Toronto
Toronto is both a car city and a public transit city (and locals love to complain about both). You may want to play on both teams during a visit, depending on your itinerary and budget.
When it comes to getting around by car, ride hailing services are quick and not terribly expensive, particularly if you are keeping within the downtown core.
Public transit in Toronto is through the TTC (Toronto Transit Commission) and spans a vast network of streetcars, buses, and subway lines. Of all the public transit networks in the world I've used, my hat goes off to the TTC for how incredibly easy it is to pay for fares. The fare tapping system is called Presto, and you can add a virtual card to your Apple Wallet or Google Pay instantly, and refill it as needed in any amount.
Rides using Presto, which you can tap via your smartphone at fare gates and on board buses and streetcars, are $3.35 for adults (for two-hours on all modes, with transfers). Children 12 and under ride the TTC free; simply board the bus or streetcar with them or enter the fare gate at the same time with them when you tap at subway stations.
Walking and biking are also great ways to get around. For the latter, Bike Share Toronto offers 24/7 access to over 9,000 bikes from 800 stations across Toronto’s neighbourhoods, with day passes or pay-as-you-go fares.
Stay
"Toronto has the greatest selection of accommodation in Canada," notes the City of Toronto in a tourism report. That includes over 36,500 hotel rooms in the greater Toronto region, of which 65 per cent are located within the city of Toronto.
For visitors, that means a broad spectrum of hotel options, all with various price points and amenities. Travellers can expect to pay about $180 and up on average for a room in downtown Toronto.
📍 Hotel X
I enjoyed my three-night stay at one of the city's newer luxury hotels, the aforementioned Hotel X . The 29-storey tower boasts 404 rooms, many of which offer beautiful Lake Ontario views and one of Toronto's most interesting hotel locations on the Ex grounds.
The location, which undoubtedly is even more lively during the run of the CNE in the summer, is ideal if you are comfortable using Uber or Lyft to get around or plan on renting a car. On average, Hotel X is about a seven- to 15-minute walk from transit stops in the vicinity.
Now a part of the Hyatt family, Hotel X offers what they call "resort-like amenities," which includes a rooftop pool, an art gallery, bookable drop-off service within a 5 kilometre radius, the Guerlain Spa, screening room, and a children's play centre. For those who need workouts beyond walking around Toronto, Hotel X's extensive athletic and fitness amenities include indoor tennis courts, hot yoga, basketball half-court, table tennis, squash courts, a pilates studio, and group fitness classes (for an additional fee).
Onsite dining includes the Italian-American steakhouse The Playbook Commons, three-level rooftop bar Valerie, and modern North American restaurant Roses Social (which serves breakfast, too).
See
Toronto is home to some of the country's most iconic landmarks, from the majestic CN Tower dominating the skyline for decades, to the colourful "TORONTO" sign in picture-perfect position at Nathan Phillips Square (yes, Vancouver, you've heard comparisons to this sign lately).
While some places haven't changed much, many destinations have had dramatic renovations, like the Royal Ontario Museum's staggering "Renaissance of ROM" from 2002 to 2010. And while the ride to the top of the CN Tower is as ear-poppingly thrilling as it ever was, the 360 views tell the story of Toronto's incredible growth in recent years.
These are Toronto's premiere attractions, particularly if you've never been or only have a couple of days:
📍 CN Tower
One of the few facts I can toss out like a party trick is that the CN Tower is 1,815 feet high (though the truly Canadian version is that it is 553 metres). That much has remained the same since the nation's tallest freestanding structure opened in 1976. Zipping to the top of the giant telecommunications and observation tower takes just shy of a minute by elevator, but travellers will need to plan for timed ticket entry and security screening ahead of the ascent.
The views from the enclosed observation level are phenomenal, with photo ops galore with your choice of backdrop: Boats dotting a glinting Lake Ontario, the Scotiabank Arena and train tracks, the vast northward GTA sprawl, or westward flanked by the big white roof of Rogers Centre (aka SkyDome...we'll get to that soon).
There is a snack bar on the first observation deck level with seating, while one level up you can experience the wind tunnel of the screened outdoor deck. If you are truly brave (or make questionable decisions) you might want to try the Edgewalk. The feature was added in 2011 and accords small groups the chance to walk, "hands-free" but tethered, on the ledge encircling the tower's main pod. Adrenaline junkies, this one's for you! Me, I will treasure the memories of my 12th birthday party at the long-gone Tour of the Universe and call my faux space mission set in far-off 2019 my ultimate CN Tower thrill.
A stunning redesign in 2002, called the "ROM Renaissance," saw the merging of the 1914 building's heritage design with the contemporary Daniel Libeskind-designed Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, which rockets out of the building skyward on the Bloor Street side. The Crystal is literally a lofty marvel of art and engineering; it's got five interlocking self-supporting structures that aren't actually attached to the original building.
Change remains the mantra at ROM, which is at work on updating its main floor and entrance, but inside there remains much to explore and be enchanted by, from the dazzling hall of crystals to the interactive kid-friendly natural history and sustainability exhibits. There are dinosaur bones and treasures from ancient Greece and Rome, and evolving special exhibits and events.
Yes, Toronto is home to a Gothic-revival castle in the city's midtown, and yes, it was once someone's home. Built in 1914, the castle now belongs to the City of Toronto and is one of the city's top attractions. You can opt to use an audio guide (included with admission) or roam the castle on your own. Each room illustrates life in the early 20th century in Toronto, and you may encounter a few costumed folk playing the role of Casa Loma's original occupants, the Pellatt family. Trek below ground from the manse to the stables and garage, or meander the elegant gardens.
The Distillery District is a prime example of Toronto doing a great job at repurposing unused and historic facilities. Opened in 2003, the 47 buildings that comprised the former Gooderham & Worts Distillery were transformed into a hub for arts, culture, and food. Live music fills the plazas, colourful art abounds, and businesses welcome locals and visitors to enjoy all they have to offer.
Food lovers will appreciate the Distillery District's selection of snacks, meals, and drinks, from ice cream to tapas and coffee shops to cocktails. It's also home to Toronto's premier artisanal chocolate-maker, Soma, which has a beautiful shop filled with treats and gelato in the summer. The Distillery District also has all sorts of shops and galleries and special event programming, including a Christmas market in the wintertime.
📍 Toronto's parks and outdoor spaces
Toronto is home to several noteworthy public parks, and if you're visiting during the spring or summer, you'll see the city is strikingly green and dotted with colourful flowers.
A few fantastic Toronto parks of note include High Park and Trinity Bellwoods Park, both well-known for being ideal sunny day gathering spots. One of my favourite parks is Berzcy Park, thanks to its charming tree-lined plaza and fountain with multiple dog statues (and a watchful cat statue near one entrance). Here you'll see the mural-covered back of Toronto's Gooderham Building, aka the city's own "Flatiron Building," which is an architectural landmark.
Allan Gardens is home to a floral conservatory, with an indoor tropical garden made up of five greenhouses, and admission is free.
Toronto's waterfront includes multiple parks and outdoor spaces with paths, playgrounds, public art, and plenty to see and do along the way. From the harbourfront (Harbour Square Park) you can take a ferry on Lake Ontario to visit the Toronto Islands, aka Toronto Island Park to see some of the city's most picturesque spots. Enjoy bird watching, boating, picnics, art, and more recreation on the Islands. Consider a bike rental to experience the Islands on wheels.
Come on, are you even a tourist if you don't snap a selfie in front of a big sign that says where you are? The large plaza in front of Toronto City Hall is a beacon locals and tourists thanks to its varied programming, from summer cultural festivals to ice skating in the winter. Frequently there is some kind of art display of note in the Square, and the "TORONTO" sign is a fixture, making this a fun stop, even just for a few photos.
📍 Toronto's neighbourhoods
Toronto is comprised of vibrant, diverse neighbourhoods, each with its own unique charm. From the upscale boutiques and fine dining of Yorkville to the indie spirit of Queen West, and the family-friendly vibes of the Annex and Leslieville, there’s a pocket of the city for every kind of urban explorer. Neighbourhoods like Chinatown and Little Italy offer a glimpse into the city’s layered immigrant histories and ever-evolving cultural identity, while the laid-back Beaches is known for its sandy lakefront, charming shops, and beach town vibes.
A few more attractions of note:
- Art Gallery of Ontario: One of North America's largest art museums is a must-see for any art lover.
- Spadina Museum: Next door to Casa Loma is this stately family home that has been turned into a museum. Tours are free but must be done with a guide.
- Hockey Hall of Fame: A shrine to the sport’s greatest players and moments, featuring exhibits and memorabilia.
- Ripley's Aquarium of Canada: Family-friendly fun conveniently located next to the CN Tower.
- Steam Whistle Brewing: A Toronto icon, offering behind the scenes brew tours (and great Jays game day deals).
- Gardiner Museum: This Toronto gem is dedicated to ceramic art, showcasing historic and contemporary works in an elegant, intimate setting.
- Graffiti Alley: A vibrant stretch of downtown laneways bursts with ever-changing street art is a top spot for urban creativity and fun photo ops.
As a fantastic bonus to visitors, Toronto's city website has several self-guided tour options, curated by genre (history, art, architecture) or neighbourhood.
Play
If you came to be entertained or part of the action, you are spoiled for choice in Toronto. It's no secret Toronto tends to be the preferred Canadian touring stop for many musical performers, as well as a hub for film (hello, TIFF), major sports franchises, live theatre, and festivals. Toronto is home to the National Ballet of Canada, the Toronto Symphony Orchestra, and the Toronto Raptors––just to name a few.
📍 Catch a Blue Jays home game
If it's between April and October, there is no better place to root for Canada's only Major League Baseball team than at the home of the Toronto Blue Jays, the SkyDome. Sure, it says Rogers Centre on the outside, but for those of us of a certain age, it will always be the SkyDome. The stadium forever changed Toronto's skyline thanks to its iconic retractable roof and location immediately west of the CN Tower. For anyone who has ever been to a Vancouver Canadians game at Nat Bailey Stadium, seeing the Jays play on their home field really exemplifies why they call MLB "the show."
The stadium is easy to get to and navigate though you may wince at some of the concession prices, but that's par for the course. Start brushing up on the lyrics to the old Toronto turkey "OK, Blue Jays," which has been the seventh inning stretch song since before the SkyDome was built.
📍 See a live theatre performance
For those who prefer Broadway to baseball (or who like both, like me), Toronto is a city renown for its world-class theatre scene. Top Canadian and international talent take the stage at multiple venues in the city, including Toronto's downtown crown jewel theatres like the Princess of Wales and the Royal Alexandra. The big name in Toronto theatre is Mirvish Productions, which is Canada’s largest commercial theatre company.
Mirvish operates four major theatres in downtown Toronto, including the Princess of Wales and Royal Alex. Each year, Mirvish presents dozens of plays and musicals from around the world, from blockbuster hits to smaller, more daring shows, alongside concerts, revivals, and new works. Hugely popular shows like the groundbraking Disney's The Lion King are winding down with the summer, but the upcoming schedule is packed with high profile productions like Back to the Future: The Musical, & Juliet, Some Like it Hot, and many more.
Eat
📍 Kensington Market & St. Lawrence Market
There's no better place to get a sense of how diverse Toronto is than to stroll the colourful bohemian Kensington Market, packed with food businesses selling everything from tacos to takoyaki and gelato to jerk chicken.
But market culture goes even deeper at St Lawrence Market, the cherished food hall home to some of the city's most beloved longstanding vendors of classic local eats and ingredients, like the peameal-style bacon sandwich and Montreal bagels, plus pasta, pastries, and pasteis de nata.
Vancouverites will immediately understand that St Lawrence Market is Toronto's equivalent to Granville Island's Public Market. Both thrive in repurposed buildings, though St Lawrence has us beat when it comes to tenure: the market has been in the vicinity, though not in the exact building, since the early 19th century.
Now home to 120 vendors in the south market alone, those keen to learn about classic Canadian and Torontonian foods should take a guided tour in order to focus on some market highlights and neighbourhood history. Secret Food Tours offers a three-hour walking tour that includes four St Lawrence Market stops and two about a kilometre down the road at the Distillery District.
Considered Canada's premiere food city, Toronto has long been known for its range of cuisines and restaurant styles and price points. The sixth North American city to join the Michelin Guide, Toronto's first edition of stars, recommendations, and picks from the esteemed publication was the first in Canada to launch, back in 2022 (delayed by two years due to the pandemic, to boot).
It doesn't have to be pricey or posh, though. You'll find abundant casual eats and grab-and-go foods city-wide, including Jamaican patties, Toronto's comfort food with deep ties to the city, bakeries, coffee and matcha, bagels and sandwiches, fast food, and small indie spots. Choose your own adventure!
When it comes to restaurants, there happens to be over 9,000 in the Greater Toronto Area, so you'll have bountiful options.
- For a complete rundown of where I ate on my three-night extra long weekend visit, check out my food-focused Toronto coverage: From markets to Michelin stars: How to eat your way through Toronto.
Here's a look at some of the dining highlights from my trip:
📍 Campechano
This casual Michelin Bib Gourmand Mexican spot serves some of the city’s best tacos on house-made heirloom corn tortillas, with flavour-packed fillings like carnitas, al pastor, and birria, plus a standout patio at the Adelaide location.
📍 Maha’s
Line up early for this beloved east-end Egyptian brunch spot, where the warm hospitality is matched by comforting plates like foole (bean stew) with sunny side up eggs, falafel-stuffed eggs, and sweet spreads served with fresh balady bread.
Co-founded by Top Chef Canada winner Carl Heinrich, Richmond Station delivers refined yet approachable fare built on seasonal Canadian ingredients, natural wine, and a no-tipping policy.
An elegant Michelin-starred Italian restaurant in Yorkville that dazzles with impeccable service and seasonal dishes like a radicchio salad with citrus, and crab-studded tagliolini, and show-stopping desserts.
This cult-favourite Ossington scoop shop serves up inventive, Asian-influenced ice cream flavours like Lychee Rosewater Raspberry and Ube Coconut, all made in-house and available by the cone, cup, or stuffed in fresh-baked cookies.
Thanks to Destination Toronto for facilitating this trip, including airfare, accommodation, and some of the meals and activities. All opinions and inclusions are those of the author and were based solely on personal experience. None of the businesses or entities featured were granted any previews of the story before publication or paid to be mentioned.
