Every summer, I go on a pilgrimage to the Italian region of Piedmont for Collisioni, a frenetic mash-up of music, literature, food and wine.
The festival takes place in the township of Barolo, which gives its name to one of Italy's most famous wines. And while I'm spoiled with free-flowing bottles of this exquisite Nebbiolo-based elixir, Collisioni gives equal opportunity to Italy's many other deserving, though less-touted treasures.
This year kicked off with an immersion in Barbera. If Nebbiolo is the suave king of Piedmont, Barbera is often considered a hard-working commoner. Charming and easy-to-like, Barbera is enticingly deep ruby-purple in colour and characterized by bright, mouth-watering acidity and low, soft tannin.
It's Italy's fourth most planted red and grown throughout the country, with Piedmont boasting its greatest expressions. In the Langhe hills, however, the best vineyard sites are reserved for Nebbiolo to make Barolo, so Barbera is typically relegated to lesser spots.
These wines are labelled as Barbera d'Alba. Not that Barbera d'Alba is bad by any stretch of the imagination; they are crafted by some of Italy's best winemakers. It's just that Barbera simply isn't the focus of the zone.
North of the Langhe hills lies the province of Asti. Here Barbera rules the vineyards and it occupies even the finest plots. Asti is large and offers a variety of styles, quality and price points. While Barbera has earned a bit of a reputation for cheap and cheerful wine, the area of Nizza is making a strong case for top-notch examples.
With a long history of superior quality wine, Nizza use to be a sub-zone of the Asti region and since 2014 boasts its own autonomous denomination with stricter growing and production methods. The consistency of excellent quality across the board has me convinced. Wines from Nizza sell for $40-80 by the time they make it to our shores and for this you get extra intensity, complexity and ageability.
Curiously, much of the Barbera you'll see in BC hails from the denomination of Barbera d'Alba. The reason for this is that most of the Barolo producers available BC also have a Barbera in their portfolio. While they are well worth a try, I encourage you to venture beyond the Langhe hills and seek out Barbera d'Asti.
2014 Ricossa Barbera d'Asti DOCG LTO $12.97 until July 29 (reg $15.29) BC Liquor Stores
This Barbera is a staple in BC. It is the epitome of the image of Barbera; affordably priced, straightforward and juicy. I recommend it when you are looking for an inexpensive bottle – but please do not end your Barbera d'Asti exploration here.
2013 Michele Chiarlo, 'Le Orme' Barbera d'Asti DOCG $23 Available at Everything Wine
Michele Chiarlo is an important name in the Asti area and was instrumental in improving the quality of Barbera. Aged in stainless steel, Le Orme is fresh and exuberant with red cherry, intriguing earthy notes and crunchy, bright acidity. A lively partner with grilled sausages.
2011 Vietti 'La Crena' Barbera d'Asti Superiore DOCG Nizza $80 Available at Kitsilano Wine Cellars
While Vietti is known as an exceptional Barolo producer, the estate also owns Barbera vineyards in the region of Nizza. La Crena demonstrates the heights that this variety can reach. Sophisticated yet still approachable, it exudes dark maraschino, black raspberry and spice aromas. Rich, round and plush on the palate with balancing cleansing acid, velvety smooth tannin and well integrated oak lending a hint of vanilla, it lingers on the finish with an appetizing dusting of cocoa.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
